EFI PROBLEMS AND REMEDIES.

All information's are based for all types of cars as the symptoms and the cause of the problems are very close related to all models. Only specific case histories are listed as "Vehicle Type" in "BOLD"

The Engine does not Start, has good spark, has good fuel pressure.

The Engine does not Start, has no spark, has good fuel pressure.

The Engine does not Start, has good spark, has no fuel pressure.

The Engine does Start, but stops again after a short run.

The engine idle is very poor and has no power. (Also poor engine idle)

The Engine idle is OK. but cuts out and stall's mostly when hot.

The Engine idle is OK. but cuts out and stall's mostly when cold

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ENGINE:- NO START

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SYMPTOM GOOD SPARK BUT NO INJECTOR PULSE.
CAUSE: -T.P.S. HAS OPEN CIRCUITED. DISCONNECT T.P.S. AT ELECTRICAL PLUG. SEE IF CAR STARTS.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE T.P.S.

CAUSE: -COOLANT TEMP SENSOR CABLE DISCONNECTED.
(FORD FAIRLINE, XD, XF ECT.)

CAUSE: - WIRING TO AIR FLOW METER DISCONNECTED OR MANIFOLD BY PASS HOSE, OR ENGINE BLOW BY HOSE DISCONNECTED.

CAUSE: -ENGINE - BACKFIRED SO HARD THAT IT CAN BLOW THE AIR CLEANER AND AIRFLOW METER APART. (GAS CONVERSIONS ECT.)
1. VANE IN THE AIR FLOW METER JAMMED FULLY OPEN, HOT WIRE BLOWN APART.
2. HOSE ON THE MAP SENSOR BLOWN OFF OR NEAR THE MANIFOLD.
3. MAIN SEAL BLOWN OUT ( EXTREME AIR LEAK INTO THE ENGINE)
4. EXHAUST TOTALLY BLOCKED. (MELTED CATALYTIC CONVERTER) ECT.
CAUSE: - THERE IS A SCREW IN THE ALTERNATOR THAT COMES LOOSE.
REMEDY - REPAIR/REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR.

CAUSE: - WRONG FUEL, (Diesel INSTEAD Petrol), LOW FLASH POINT FUEL CONTAMINATED WITH WATER, OR TOO MUCH OIL (INJECTOR CLEANERS)

SYMPTOM - NO INJECTOR PULSE:
CAUSE - POOR E.C.U. EARTH. THE ECU EARTH IS LOCATED AT THE REAR OF THE LEFT HEADLIGHT. (FORD)
REMEDY - REMOVE AND CLEAN THE EARTH BOLT TERMINALS.

CAUSE - CHECK ALL EARTHING POINTS ARE UNDER 0.03V. IF ANY ARE OVER THIS, THERE MAY BE PROBLEMS WITH THE CARS NOT STARTING.
REMEDY - REPAIR / REPLACE EARTHS.
CHECK THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR PLUG FOR CORROSION. MAKE SURE THAT THE VOLTAGES ARE CORRECT ON PINS 8 & 17 AT THE EFI ECU.(FORD)
IF NO PULSE - REPLACE THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR.

CAUSE - CHECK FOR WATER IN THE FUEL TANK, USE INTER-JECTRON WITH INDICATOR TO REMOVE WATER FIRST FROM THE FUEL AND FUEL TANK. INTER-JECTRON IS SEPARATING WATER AND MOISTER OUT OF FUEL AND MAKE IT BURN OUT VIA THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER.

CAUSE - CHECK FOR WATER AND MOISTURE IN THE BASE OF THE DISTRIBUTOR. THIS WILL AFFECT THE MESSAGE FROM THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR TO THE ENGINE ECU.(VL COMMODORE, NISSAN)
REMEDY - DRY OUT WITH COMPRESSED AIR.
CHECK FOR WATER IN THE ECU. NO GO DUE TO LEAKAGE AT THE WINDSCREEN ALLOWING WATER TO ENTER THE ECU.

CAUSE -THE INJECTOR IT SELF OR THE CONNECTOR PLUG, ONE OF THEM HAS A TOTAL SHORT TO GROUND.
REMEDY - DISCONNECT THE INJECTOR, ONE AT THE TIME ONLY AND START VEHICLE. IF THE FAULTY INJECTOR HAS BEEN FOUND, IT MUST BE REPLACED. CONNECTOR SHORT:- CHECK ALL CONNECTORS BY PULSE THEM BACK TO THE ECU CONNECTOR WITH THE LB-991/V PULSE GENERATOR TO CHECK FOR SHORT IN THE HARNESS.

CAUSE - REVERSE POLARITY RELAY ACTIVATED BY A SHORT CIRCUIT AT THE PROTECTION DIODE. THIS IS USUALLY IN A WET WEATHER SITUATION. ("COMMODORE")
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NO START, NO SPARK:

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CAUSE: - FAULTY HALL SENSOR IN DISTRIBUTOR.
REMEDY - REPLACE HALL DEVICE.

CAUSE: - TFI MODULE IN THE DISTRIBUTOR. (FORD)
REMEDY - POOR WATER AROUND DISSY TO COOL IT DOWN. IF CAR THEN STARTS, REPLACE THE T.F.I. MODULE WITH A GENUINE FORD PART.
NOTE: IT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO REPLACE THE PICK UP COIL AND ROTOR AS WELL, AS THOSE PARTS MAY FAIL DUE A CONFLICT OF AN RESISTANCE DIFFERENTIAL FROM THE NEW T.F.I. MODULE OR VIES VERSA.

SYMPTOMS - STOPPED AND WOULD NOT START WHEN HOT. AS SOON AS IT COOLED DOWN IT WOULD RESTART.
CAUSE: - FAULTY HALL SENSOR IN DISTRIBUTOR.
REMEDY - REPLACE HALL DEVICE.

INTERMITTENT LACK OF SPARK WHEN HOT MAINLY IS CAUSED BY THE CONNECTIONS BETWEEN THE T.F.I. MODULE AND THE HALL SENSOR.
REMEDY - INCREASE THE TENSION ON THE SPADE TERMINALS FROM HALL SENSOR TO T.F.I. MODULE.

CAUSE: - CHECK FOR CORROSION AT THE GREY FOUR PIN CONNECTOR NEAR THE DIP STICK. (FORD)
REMEDY - CLEAN THE TERMINALS AT THIS CONNECTOR THE BEST THAT YOU CAN. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO USE "INTER-JECTRON". THIS PRODUCT IS AVAILABLE FROM INTER-JECT AUSTRALIA P.O. BOX 38 ULAN NSW. 2850 OR ANY DISTRIBUTOR.

CAUSE: - 1. NO GO DUE TO LEAKAGE AT THE WINDSCREEN ALLOWING WATER TO ENTER THE ECU.
2. LOOSE OR POOR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU OR INJECTORS. THIS HAS BEEN FOUND ALSO TO CAUSE ENGINE MISFIRING..
3. MAIN WIRING HARNESS RUBS THROUGH ON THE EDGE OF THE BRAKE BOOSTER CAUSING A FUSIBLE LINK TO BLOW.
4. MAIN ENGINE RELAY OR FUSE FAULTY, MELTED CONNECTIONS ON THE FUSE HOLDER ACTING AS INSULATOR.
5. DISTRIBUTOR CAP, IGNITER COIL, COIL OR COIL PACK OR ECU FAULTY.

CAUSE: - ROTOR BUTTON HAS BURNT OUT.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE ROTOR BUTTON WITH THE GENUINE PART ONLY.(ALFA, TOYOTA, FORD, HOLDEN, NISSAN.)

NOTE: THIS IS A COMMON FAULT;

ALFA ROMEO, AUDI, BMW, MERCEDES, PEUGEOT, VOLVO 7 SERIES AND MANY OTHER VEHICLE TYPE.
SYMPTOMS: JUST TURNING ON THE IGNITION KEY ( NO ENGINE CRANKING ), ONLY ONE SPARK IS VISIBLE.
REMEDY - REPLACE BOSCH HIGH BRIDGE IGNITION MODULE

PROBLEM - NO START (NO ENGINE CHECK LIGHT OPERATION).
CAUSE: - ELECTRICAL PLUG ABOVE ECU IN PASSENGERS KICK PANEL.
A LOOSE CONNECTION OR DISCONNECTED PLUG WILL STOP THE CAR FROM STARTING.
REMEDY - REFIT THE PLUG CORRECTLY.
NOTE - THIS WILL GIVE THE SAME SYMPTOMS AS A FAULTY ALARM.
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NO START, NO FUEL PRESSURE.

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CAUSE: - SPADE TYPE TERMINAL ON THE FUEL PUMP EARTH.
REMEDY - REMOVE THE FUEL PUMP AND REPAIR THE EARTH WIRE. REFIT THE FUEL PUMP TO VEHICLE.

CAUSE: - FUEL PUMP SUPPLY FUSE HOLDER BURNT OUT. THIS IS CAUSED BY HIGH RESISTANCE BETWEEN THE 10A FUSE AND THE CONNECTOR.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE FUSE AND HOLDER.

CAUSE: - THE FUEL PUMP CUT OFF SWITCH, LOCATED IN THE SPARE WHEEL WELL, WAS ACTIVATED WHEN THE CAR HAD DRIVEN OVER A POT HOLE IN THE ROAD.
REMEDY - REMOVE THE REAR WHEEL COVER AND PRESS THE RED RESET BUTTON.

FUEL PUMP IS NOT WORKING.
CAUSE: - THIS HAPPENS DUE TO THE MARGINAL RATING OF THE FUSE.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE FUSE WITH A 20A FUSE. THIS IS A LOT BIGGER BUT IT IS NOT TO BIG FOR THE CIRCUIT. FIRST MAKE SURE, THAT A BLOCKED FUEL FILTER OR A BLOCKED FUEL REGULATOR OR A CRUSHED RETURN LINE IS NOT CAUSING THE FUSE TO BLOW. FURTHER A SHORT IN THE WIRING UNDER THE BACK SEAT RUBS TROUGH BECAUSE OF MISPLACEMENT WITH SPEAKER WIRING OUT OF THE PROPOSED CHANNEL. THIS HAPPENS IN MANY CARS.

NO FUEL PUMP OPERATION.
CAUSE: - OPEN CIRCUIT IN SPADE TYPE FUSE, NUMBER 21, LOCATED ON R/H/F FUSE PANEL. HEAT GENERATED FROM THE LOOSE TERMINAL, RESULTS IN THE PLASTIC MELTING, AND SEPARATING A FUSE WIRE FROM THE SPADE TERMINAL. REMEDY - CLEAN AND TIGHTEN THE FUSE BLOCK TERMINAL AND RENEW THE MELTED FACE....

PROBLEM - NO FUEL PUMP OPERATION.
CAUSE: - LOOSE AND CORRODED CONNECTOR TERMINALS, NEAR THE FUEL TANK.
REMEDY - CLEAN THESE TERMINALS AND CHECK FOR THE FUEL PUMP, DRAWING CURRENT. OR.......
PROBLEM - NO FUEL PUMP OPERATION.
SYMPTOM - RELAY O.K. - BUT NO 12V AT PUMP.
CAUSE: - A POOR CONNECTION WAS FOUND UNDER THE CARPET, NEAR THE REAR DOOR ON THE LEFT SIDE. THE CONNECTION IS A MULTI-PIN PLUG. REMEDY - DISCONNECT THE PLUG, CLEAN AND RE-JOIN. (HOLDEN, CAMIRA, FORD, NISSAN, TOYOTA ).
CHECK CONTINUITY ON THE WIRES GOING THROUGH THIS CONNECTION WITH THE LB-991/V OR WITH A VOLT METER TO BE 100% SURE IT IS O.K. .

PROBLEM - NO FUEL PUMP OPERATION.
CAUSE: - FUEL PUMP HAS WORN BRUSHES OR SIZED.
REMEDY - TAP THE PUMP SLIGHTLY WITH A RUBBER HAMMER AND IF IT RUNS, REPLACE IT.
SIZED PUMPS ARE VERY COMMON DUE A RUST FLAKE IN THE ROTOR OR A WORN ROTOR OR A WORN JAMMED BRUSH WHERE THE BRUSH SPRING SLIPS THROUGH THE HOLDER AND JAMES THE COMMENTATOR.

PROBLEM - ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP NOT WORKING INTERMITTENTLY.
SYMPTOMS - ONLY SOMETIMES WILL PRIME THE ENGINE AFTER IGNITION IS TURNED ON.
CAUSE: - FUEL PUMP RELAY IS FAULTY.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP RELAY.

OTHER FAULTS WHICH ARE COMMON.
1. CONTACT POINTS IN THE AIR FLOW METER DIRTY OR BROKEN.
VW, TOYOTA, BMW, ALFA, FIAT, PEUGEOT.
2. FUEL RELAY FULL WITH ANTS CAUSING AN OPEN CIRCUIT (NORTHERN PART OF AUSTRALIA, QLD, NT, WA)
3. NO FUEL IN THE FUEL TANK. FUEL GAUGE WRONG.
4. PUMP IS CAVITATING. STRAINER IN THE TANK IS BLOCKED FROM INFERIORS FUEL ADDITIVES WHICH GOING TO JELLY AND BLOCK THE STRAINER. 5. FUEL PUMP IS RUNNING, BUT SHEERED OFF THE INTERNAL PLASTIC COUPLING TO THE ACTUAL PUMP ROTOR. (PUMP ROTOR SIZED.)
6. REGULATOR LEAKING, NO FUEL PRESSURE CAN BE BUILD UP IN THE SYSTEM.
7. SPLIT HOSE INSIDE THE FUEL TANK. NO PRESSURE BUILD UP AND IS RECIRCULATING ONLY THE FUEL BACK INTO THE TANK.
8. HOSE CLAMP, OR SEAL ON THE PUMP IN THE TANK IS NOT SEALING PROPERLY.
9. SAFETY PUMP CIRCUIT IN THE COMPUTER IS FAULTY.
10. IGNITION SWITCH IS FAULTY, NOT ACTIVATING THE PUMP SIGNAL TO THE ECU.
11. CONTROL UNIT NOT ACTIVATING THE FUEL PUMP.
12. MAIN WIRING HARNESS RUBS THROUGH ON THE EDGE OF THE BRAKE BOOSTER CAUSING A FUSIBLE LINK TO BLOW.
13. CORROSION IN CONNECTORS, SEPARATED CONNECTORS UNDER THE FLOOR MAT, WIRING MELTED NEAR THE EXHAUST.
14. OIL PRESSURE SWITCH FAULTY. (VN, VP, VR, VS COMMODORE.)
15. BATTERY TERMINAL TO THE FUSE LINK CORRODED
16. ACCUMULATOR HAS A SPLIT DIAPHRAGM AND RETURNING THE FUEL BACK TO THE TANK. (K-JETRONIC)
17. FUEL DISTRIBUTOR LEAK VIA THE PRESSURE REGULATOR VALVE. (K-JETRONIC)
18. PUMP SWITCH IN THE SENSOR PLATE HOUSING FAULTY. (K-JETRONIC)
19. LIFT PUMP FAULTY, OVERLOADING THE MAIN FUEL PUMP AND IS CAVATATING. (EFI, & K-JETRONIC)
20. CRUSHED FUEL PIPE LINES FROM A HOIST OR JACK.
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The Engine does Start, but stops again after a short run.

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SYMPTOM - HIGH TENSION SPARK IS CONSTANT, BUT WEAK.
ENGINE WOULD EVENTUALLY START AND REV OUT SATISFACTORILY BUT STALL WHEN RETURNED TO THE IDLE POSITION.
CAUSE: - LOOSE OR CORRODED BATTERY TERMINAL.

CAUSE: - A FAULTY CONNECTION AT THE IDLE SPEED CONTROL MOTOR D.C. IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS.
REMEDY - REPAIR THIS CONNECTION AND RETRY.

SYMPTOM - SAME AS BROKEN PIGTAIL WIRE, INTERMITTENT.
CAUSE: - OPEN CIRCUIT IN WIRING LOOM NEAR DISTRIBUTOR.
REMEDY - RECONNECT WIRING PLUG.

CAUSE: - CHECK ALL EARTHING POINTS ARE UNDER 0.03V.
IF ANY ARE OVER THIS, THERE MAY BE PROBLEMS WITH THE CARS STALLING INTERMITTENTLY.
REMEDY - REPAIR / REPLACE EARTHS.
CHECK THE CRANK ANGLE SENSOR PLUG FOR CORROSION.
MAKE SURE THAT THE VOLTAGES ARE CORRECT ON PINS 8 & 17 AT THE EFI ECU.

PROBLEM - THE ENGINE WOULD START O.K. AND RUN AT IDLE O.K.,
BUT WHEN THE CARS ACCELERATOR WAS USED, IT WOULD NOT ACCELERATE.
CAUSE: - THE FUEL FILTER IS BLOCKED WHICH DESTROYED THE PUMP TO BE STILL FAULTY AFTER CHANGING THE FUEL FILTER.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP. BUT CHECK FUEL PUMP RELAY FIRST FOR CURRENT LOSSES DUE ARCING AND DIRTY CONTACTS INSIDE THE RELAY.

CAUSE: - FAULTY TACHOMETER (rpm meter) BUT CAREFUL READ AS FOLLOW;
SOME VEHICLES WITH THE VP TYPE TACHOMETERS, WHICH USES A "KE" TYPE MECHANISM, HAVE BEEN REPORTED TO HAVE A FLUCTUATING TACHOMETER NEEDLE.
THE KE TYPE WAS FIRST USED IN THE LATE PRODUCTION OF 1991 AS SERVICE FIX FOR THE EARLY NEEDLE STICKING VN TACHOMETERS. INVESTIGATION HAS SHOWN THAT THE CONDITION TO BE RELATED TO AN IGNITION MISFIRE IN THE ENGINE. THIS IS CAUSED BY FAULTY PLUGS OR LEADS. THE SENSITIVE KE TYPE IS MORE LIKELY TO BE AFFECTED BY AN ELECTRICAL DISTURBANCES, SUCH AS IGNITION ARCING, THAN THE VN TYPE TACHOMETER.

REMEDY - THEREFORE THE IGNITION SYSTEM NEEDS TO BE INSPECTED VERY CAREFULLY WHEN A TACHOMETER PROBLEM IS ENCOUNTERED ON ONE OF THESE VEHICLES, BEFORE CONDEMNING THE TACHOMETER ITSELF.
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The Engine idle is very poor and has no power.

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1. MAIN CAUSES:-
FUEL FILTER BLOCKED, FUEL PUMP FAULTY, TIMING WRONG, SPARK PLUG FAULTY, LEADS FAULTY, TIMING BELT SETTING WRONG, BURNED VALVE, BEND VALVE, HEAD GASKET LEAKING, WATER IN FUEL, AIR LEAK ON THE INLET MANIFOLD, CARBON ON THE BACK OF THE INLET VALVES, AIR FLOW METER WRONG SETTING, BEND SHAFT OR WIPER TRACK DIRTY, DIP STICK SEAL OR MAIN SEAL AIR LEAK, EXHAUST BLOCKED AND MANY MORE....

- IDLES O.K. WHEN COLD BUT AS IT GETS TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE, IT WILL RUN ROUGH.
CAUSE: - CARBON BUILD UP AND DIRTY INJECTORS.
REMEDY - DO A FULL INTER-JECT SERVICE WITH THE EQUIPMENT AND CHECK FOR EFI & ENGINE CALIBRATIONS.

- IDLES O.K. WHEN COLD BUT AS IT GETS TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE, IT WILL RUN ROUGH.
CAUSE: - FAULTY TEMP SENSOR.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE TEMP SENSOR.

- IDLES O.K. WHEN COLD BUT AS IT GETS TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE, IT WILL RUN ROUGH.
CAUSE: - FAULTY ECU.
REMEDY - REPLACE/REPAIR THE ECU.

- IDLES O.K. WHEN COLD BUT AS IT GETS TO OPERATING TEMPERATURE, IT WILL RUN ROUGH.
CAUSE: - FAULTY TEMP SENSOR WIRING (OPEN CIRCUIT.)
REMEDY - CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS BY PULSE THEM BACK TO THE TEMPORARILY DISCONNECTED ECU CONNECTOR WITH THE LB-991/V PULSE GENERATOR TO CHECK FOR OPEN CIRCUIT IN THE WIRING.
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The Engine idle is OK. but cuts out and stall's mostly when hot.

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1. CRIMP OFF THE RETURN LINE AND SEE IF THIS IMPROVES THE OPERATION OF ENGINE.
IF YES, do a full INTER-JECT service right now!

CLEAN THE INJECTORS WITH THE LB-291/2F MACHINE AND DO ALSO A CALIBRATION CHECK AND RESETTING THE EFI SYSTEM. RE-EDUCATE THE COMPUTER AFTER THE SERVICE.
(THERE HAVE BEEN A LOT OF PROBLEMS WITH THE INJECTORS ON ALL VEHICLES).

CAUSE: - A CODE MAY BE BROUGHT UP DUE TO A BACKFIRE IN THE ENGINE PREVIOUS TO THE CHECK OF CODES.
TURN KEY OFF, OR DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FOR 25 SECONDS AND THEN BACK ON, SEE IF CODE IS STILL PRESENT.
NOTE: - NO PROBLEM MAY BE PRESENT EVEN IF A CODE 22 STILL REMAINS IN THE MEMORY. CHECK FOR BLOWN OFF VACUUM HOSES, AND FAULTY MAP SENSORS OR AIR FLOW METERS, OXYGEN SENSOR EARTH, REGULATOR LEAK ON THE VACUUM SIDE.

SYMPTOM - THE CAR IS VERY LEAN AT IDLE AND VERY RICH OFF IDLE.
CAUSE: - OXYGEN SENSOR IS NOT FLUCTUATING AT IDLE. IT IS READING A CONSTANT 0.02V THEN WHEN REVVING IT IT WILL GO OVER 5V.
REMEDY - RUN ENGINE WITH INTER-JECTRON CLEANER FOR 15-20 MINUTES AT IDLE. IF THE OXYGEN SENSOR IS PAST THE 70-80.000 KM. IN THE VEHICLE, SENSOR IS FAULTY.

CAUSE: - CHECK ALL EARTHING POINTS ARE UNDER 0.03V. IF ANY ARE OVER THIS, THERE MAY BE PROBLEMS WITH THE CARS STALLING INTERMITTENTLY.
REMEDY - REPAIR / REPLACE EARTHS.

NOTE: COMMON PROBLEMS ARE AS FOLLOWED.
1. COIL RESISTANCE CHANGE, DISTRIBUTOR EARTH, IDLE UP VALVE HAS CARBON BUILD UP, THROTTLE BODY IS DIRTY, MANIFOLD LEAK, (VL COMMODORE HAS LOSE MANIFOLD BOLT'S)
2. RANDOM ACCESS MEMORY (RAM) IN THE ECU IS FAULTY, MAP SENSOR, AIR FLOW METER, FUEL QUALITY AND FLOW QUANTITY, FUEL AIRIATIONS FROM PUMP CAVITATION, BLOCKED RETURN LINE.
3. PICK UP COIL, COIL PACK VN, VR, VS, ECT. TACHOMETER FAULTY, VACUUM AIR LEAK IN THE CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM OR THE HEATING CONTROLS. ( VOLVO, MERCEDES, BMW ETC.)
4. LOOSE OR POOR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU OR INJECTORS. THIS HAS BEEN FOUND TO CAUSE ENGINE MISFIRING
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The Engine idle is OK. but cuts out and stall's mostly when cold.

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GENERAL PROBLEMS FOUND :
1. LOOSE ENGINE EARTH.
2. HARD STARTING AFTER RUNNING OUT OF FUEL (airiations)
3. RUNNING ROUGH DUE TO HIGH FUEL PRESSURE. THIS IS CAUSED BY BLOCKAGES IN THE FUEL TANK RETURN LINE.
3. RUNNING ROUGH DUE TO LOW FUEL PRESSURE. (EFI & K-JETRONIC)
4. LOOSE OR POOR CONNECTIONS AT THE ECU OR INJECTORS OR TEMP SENSOR.
5. AIR AUXILIARY VALVE JAMMED OR FAULTY AND CAN NOT ENRICH MIXTURE.
6. COLD START INJECTOR IS LEAKING OR NOT WORKING AT ALL.
7. SYSTEM TOTAL OUT OF CALIBRATION AND REQUIRES AN INTER-JECT SERVICE.
8. T.F.I. MODULE OR PICK UP COIL, DIRTY CRANK ANGLE/SPEED SENSOR IN VL, NISSAN, AND OTHERS.
9. FUEL FILTER, FUEL PUMP, STRAINER IN THE TANK, LEAKY INJECTORS, PIN HOLE IN VACUUM HOSES, VALVE TIMING OR VALVES TO TIGHT WHEN COLD, VALVE BEND OR BURNED, PVC VALVE BLOCKED, EXHAUST BLOCKED, AIR FILTER BLOCKED, CHAR COAL CANISTER FAULTY, CRANKSHAFT PULLEY KEY SHEERED OFF AND IT CHANGES LOCATIONS. TIMING BELT/CHAIN TO LOOSE.
10. CONTROL UNIT NOT ACTIVATING THE FUEL PUMP PROPERLY. (NISSAN, TOYOTA MAINLY IN-TANK PUMPS.)

CAUSE: - A FAULTY CONNECTION AT THE IDLE SPEED CONTROL MOTOR D.C. IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS.
REMEDY - REPAIR THIS CONNECTION AND RETRY.

SYMPTOM - CODE FOR THE ENGINE SPEED SENSOR CAME UP.
CAUSE: - THE TIMING BELT HAD JUMPED THREE TEETH AND WAS CAUSING A MECHANICAL MALFUNCTION. AFTER FIXING THIS FAULT, CLEAR THE CODES AND RECHECK. THE CODE FOR THE SPEED SENSOR SHOULD BE GONE AND A CLEAR CODE SHOULD REMAIN.

SYMPTOM - PUT INTO REVERSE AND IT WILL STALL. ( FORD )
CAUSE: - FAULTY IGNITION MODULE AND PICK-UP COIL. REMEDY -REPLACE IGNITION MODULE AND PICK-UP COIL.
FURTHER FAULTS:-
LOCK UP TORQUE CONVERTER, AIR FLOW METER, AIR BY PASS VALVE, VACUUM HOSES & MOSTLY OF IT IS OUT OF CALIBRATIONS AND CARBON BUILD UP ON THE BACK OF THE VALVES. ON OLDER ENGINES, VALVE GUIDES.

PROBLEM - VEHICLE STARTS AND RUN O.K.
AS SOON AS PUT INTO GEAR IT STALLS.
CAUSE: - THE PLUG AT THE AFM HAD AN INCORRECTLY FITTED WIRE, (G/R) WHICH OPEN CIRCUITED WITH ENGINE MOVEMENT. REMEDY - REFIT THE WIRE INTO THE HARNESS PLUG ENSURING THAT THE LOCATION LUG IS FITTED CORRECTLY.
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