Well we finally loaded the caravan
and headed off to Whittakers Scarpe Mill campsite just south of
Dwellingup. This is a lovely camp in an old mill townsite. Plenty
of walk trails through the bush with remnant vegetation from the
town such as roses, plums, poplars, fig trees etc. South Dandalup
dam is only a short drive away and has a beautiful swimming area
and drinking water.
Just a short walk down the road is where a farm used to be,
before it became a catchment area, with lots of cleared areas and
in the evenings around 30 to 40 timid kangaroos are grazing.
We stayed up for New Years Eve with the other campers but had to
go back to our annexe and put the heater on as it got very cold.
We celebrated midnight with our friends Don and Marg who came
down from Perth for a couple of days.
We ran amock one day and baked some bread, used the laptop, watched some TV and recorded Roswell. Well the next day was overcast and the batteries were pretty low, so no TV or video for 2 days while we solar charged the batteries.
We also ran out of caravan drinking water while we were away even though we were supposed to have 160 litres on board. When we got home we measured the water in the tanks and found we only had 110 litres. We use around 10 litres a day providing we can find other water for dishwashing and showering. After heated discussions with Windsor they finally agreed in conjunction with George Day Caravans to replace the rear tank for a larger one so that we will have the storage we requested.
So far Windsor have supplied us with tyres, bed and tanks that are too small but they have supplied us with a towball weight that is too heavy! If we ever purchase another caravan I will really detail the specs that I want including towball weight that is only 5% of the Aggregate weight, which in my case is 105Kg, when the gas, water and batteries are fitted. Our van has 190Kg empty!!!
We went back to Perth to cut the lawn ready for a home open and to buy a standby generator. We purchased a Honda EU10i generator because it used half the fuel, was half the weight and was the quietest one on the market. Unfortunately the first one didn't run properly and was happily exchanged. The second one is not running correctly as it is missing all the time. I will take it back and see if they can fix it. I hope all Hondas arent like this.
We received an offer on our house which should become unconditional by mid February. We will have to hang around to settle things when it is sold so we may look at heading north in March, April instead of south, spending time at Jurien, Dongara etc. There are supposed to be good diving and fishing spots up that way.
We have now gone to Dwellingup again but this time to Lane Poole reserve and camped at Stringers, we tried Christmas Creek as in the free camping guide but it is only suitable for tents. We spent 2 nights at Stringers, no phone, tv or radio service available, but a nice swimming area. Right below the camp was canoe steps into the water which was 10 feet or more deep, if you walk south around 300 metres you come across a pebble beach with shallow water suitable for kids. Very scenic.
We travelled on to Waroona Dam but too many people as it is really only an area for water sports. Too noisy for us. We then headed for Drakesbrook Weir just behind Waroona and found a delightful lake with shade and tables, unfortunately no camping. Set up the van and annexe, had lunch, swam and stayed here for a few hours.
We have now set up camp at Martins Tank Lake campgrounds. This is in Yalgorup National Park near Preston Beach. It is full of Peppermint trees but not much wildlife to be seen yet. Lot of shade too so have had to run the genny for a few hours each day. Have swum at nearby Preston Beach which was good, lots of 4wd camped on the beach and fisherpersons. Annie the park ranger was fun to talk to and provided some info on the Esperence area. Met a group of 5 here and played soccer till 11:00pm then toasted marshmellows around the fire. Stayed 5 days then headed to Herron Point.
Went scooping for crabs at Herron Point but only caught 1. 2 young guys gave us 2 that they had caught. The next day all 4 of us jumped in my boat and went to the other side of the Estuary away from the normal crabbing area. Here we scooped up 15 crabs in 40 minutes. I was the lookout while trolling the boat and the others jumped in and scooped as we found them. Good fun. Stayed 3 days then headed home as it was getting quite windy.
We should be getting confirmation that finance has been approved for the people buying our house. It depends on settlement date when and where we head next. See you in the February report.
Peter and Sandy
18/3/2002 - Well we finally loaded the caravan and took off Sunday morning. We drove south via Bunbury and Bussleton and on to Canebrake Pool camping area next to Margaret River in the Rapids Conservation Park. The river here was pleasant and quite suitable for swimming and marroning. Most of the campsites were taken and we were craving for some peace and isolation so we headed on to Conto Field in the Leeuwin Naturaliste National Park. Very thick vegetation with an enormous variety of vegetation. Plenty of good shaded campsites available, wood and drinking water supplied. $12 a night for 2. We camped in a sunny spot on a hill with good mobile reception. Took a drive down to the ocean, very scenic but no good for swimming, may try fishing later on this week.
19/3/2002
While we were on a walk trail to Lakes Cave we came across a small path which led to Museum Cave. One of the many small caves dotted throughout the park. A sign warns you not to enter without an approved guide. It appeared about 30 feet down to the opening.
20/3/2002
There is a 120Km Cape to Cape walk thru the park. The vegetation is around 7 foot high with lots of kangaroo trails leading off thru the bush.
21/3/2002
Meekadarribee Falls has an aboriginal legend about two lovers who eloped against the tribes wishes but he was tracked down and killed. When she eventually died of a broken heart her spirit lived on in these falls.
Ellensbrook Homestead was once the home of Alfred and Ellen Bussell, the district's first pioneers.
23/03/2002
Driving along Caves road we turned off at Boranup Drive. We drove thru a spectacular Karri forest. The Karri's were losing their bark and turning a pretty shade of salmon. We then went to Hamelin Bay for morning tea. We will possibly stay at the bay on the way back.
We continued on to Augusta where we stopped in a caravan park overnight and did a couple of loads of washing. The next day we headed via Alexandra Bridge and Donnelly River with afternoon tea at Walpole. Then on to Parrys Beach campgrounds at $5 a night, showers (occasionally warm) and flush loos. We will be camping here for at least 2 weeks as we have to go to Albany (80 Kms) to facilitate our settlement which has been delayed from the 28/3 to 8/4 and now to 12/4. Once this is out of the way we will head north again.
We drove into Denmark and visited their annual markets where all the locals bring in there wares to sell. We did some scenic drives and a short walk along the edge of the Wilson Inlet.
We had gone fishing on the Frankland River and caught a Black Bream and a Skippy. The forest came right down to the edge of the river. We sat under a tree in the boat and fished. It was very peaceful listening to the sounds of the forest. I watched and helped the Salmon fishermen haul in a netload of fish at Parry's Beach. I was rewarded for my help by being allowed to "CATCH" a Salmon by hand out of the net. I bled the salmon at the beach, then cut the red meat out of the fillets and soaked the white meat in milk for around 4 hours before cooking it. It tasted yummy.
Yesterday 31/4, I pulled the fridge out again as it was still not secure after a few rough roads. It is now well and truly screwed and riveted so if it moves again it means the cupboard is falling apart. Today we put the boat into the ocean at Parrys and went fishing about a kilometre off shore. Sandy got excited when she caught her first 2 Wrasse at the same time. She caught 6 Wrasse and 1 Cod, we threw back 3 of the smallest Wrasse. Fish for tea for the next couple of nights, hope they taste good.
Sandy now has a new washing machine. We met a couple who have been on the road for 4 years and they showed us how to wash clothes. Purchase 1 rubber sink plunger, the type you unblock drains with, drill 3 x 1 inch holes in it. Next half fill a bucket with clothes, water and soap then plunge 3 times every 5 minutes or so for half an hour. Then rinse the same way and hang up on the nearest tree.
We tried to use an Internet centre in Denmark but to plug our laptop in was going to cost $5 plus 50c a minute. We used the mobile which is only 16c a minute after hours.
Well the wrasse that Sandy caught last month didn't taste so good. Quality only about 4 out of 10. We got a couple more fillets of Salmon from our neighbors and disposed of the wrasse.
We have traveled on to West Cape Howe National Park.
We looked in at Cosy Corner East camping area but there was no access to the beach from the available campsites. If you had a trailer or tent then you could have stayed in the main camping area which had access to the beach. Cosy Corner itself is not open for camping until late April due to the number of day trippers using the area. We decided to travel on to Shelleys Beach and we were glad we did.
Shelley Beach is beautiful. The drive in was up a very steep Coombs Road hill, 1st gear only at around 10Kmh! The drive down to Shelleys was gravel and not quite as steep. Sandy walked this 4Kms every morning, 4Kms up then 4Kms down. We had drop loos and clear drinkable fresh water stream coming out of the limestone hills for washing water. NP fees of $10 a night as usual.
There is a small camp of Herring/Salmon net fishers here, have only seen them out once so far and they caught around 1.5 ton. They leave the herring net out overnight and bring it in at sunrise.
Yesterday we saw a seal, which the locals have named Sammy, he was enjoying a feed of mullet which he was catching. He swam up and down the shore for a few hours. We also saw a pod of dolphins in the bay about 8, they stayed around most of the morning but too far out to swim to. Later on we saw a pod of around 20 and they took about 5 minutes to travel right across the bay.
I've been snorkeling along the shore reef here and have seen a lot of 1 kg size fish, sometimes up to 200 at a time, they are only about 2 metres away from you. Mainly bream and cod, smaller herring as well. Clear water with visibility at around 20 feet and a water temp of 20.5 degrees. Caught a couple of shitty bream, so named because they shit when you take them off the hook. The flesh is blue/white and they taste ok. Hope to try diving around the rocks when the swell (currently 3m) goes down to see if I can get some abalone.
Lots of Fairy Wrens and Scrub Wrens, the Scrub Wrens keep coming into the annexe and Sandy has to show them how to get out again.
We ordered a wood fired Pizza Friday night as the local Cosy Corner Shop which makes pre-ordered pizzas on Friday and Saturday. Tasted yummy but a little too many sun-dried tomatoes.
Took the boat down to a boat launching beach behind Migo Island then went snorkeling in the bay near Richard Island while Sandy tried to fish for squid.
Saw lots of varieties of fish but no squid seen or caught. Sandy was a bit worried in the boat by herself with the 1/2 metre swell coming thru but she survived.
Stayed at Shelleys for 2 weeks and on the way to Crystal Springs campsite we stopped in at William Bay - Green's Pool and Elephant Cove. A terrific spot for swimming and for the kids to explore. No matter how rough the seas are, the pool is as calm as can be. At Crystal Springs we explored the coast from Mandalay Beach back to Walpole. We went for an hours stroll in Nuyts Wilderness, no roads or vehicles allowed in this vast area.
Stopped by Rest Point Caravan Park to have a look, which appears to be a terrific spot right on the Walpole Inlet. Met a few people who come back here year after year. We had Crystal Springs to ourselves until I was having a shower in the early evening without the shower tent. Sandy had to hold the towel up while the campers drove past ever so slowly, I was waiting for their camera to come out! Lucky they didn't turn up 15 minutes before when Sandy was having her shower, imagine the screams.
We then left for Mount Frankland which has some terrific views from the top back to the coast. The walk around the base of the granite top was exceptionally beautiful.
We had a wood fire going in the timber hut provided for campers. It was a nice warm cosy night.
From Mt Frankland we went to Fernhook Falls and stayed the weekend.
CALM is currently rejuvenating this camping area but they didn't work on the weekend so we had a quiet time. Around 10pm we walked down to the canoe launching ramp on Rowells Pool, the full moon was out and we had the most glorious reflections of the surrounding trees and the moon.
Onto Brook Inlet which has 100 acres of shire land inside the DEntrecasteaux National park. Around 20 shacks and I believe 4 or 5 freehold blocks with houses. The inlet itself is a large body of water which was particularly low this year.
Not many fish caught by the people staying at Brook. I decided that the next morning we would put the boat in the water and cruise across the inlet to the river then onto the ocean. Unfortunately for Sandy we had thunder and lightning and rain but she still came with me to keep me company. I had a lovely time but Sandy thought it was a bit cold! I put the boat back on the car and 2 hours later the sun came out the wind stopped and it turned into a lovely afternoon/evening with ripple free water, you can't win all the time. Should have gone driving in the morning instead of boating.
We went for a drive to Moores Hut which we could have just about got our caravan through the tracks. Very pretty campsite and the campers here had been catching salmon galore on the local beach. The hut is an old historic 3 bedroom homestead with oak floors salvaged from a shipwreck and pressed tin walls and no ceilings. The old cattle yards and stables are still evident in the bush.
We took off for Boorara Tree (a 53m high abandoned fire lookout tree) and a 5Km round trip walk to the Lane Poole Falls. This was a lovely walk but the granite boulders the falls are made of needed the water to look really good. Now is the wrong season for visting the falls with only a trickle of water available.
On to Windy Harbour via Northcliffe.
Drove around the settlement of shacks towing the van and down a small road to Cathedral Rocks. We came to a sign that said no caravans so we had to do a lot of reversing and a 10 point turn then dumped the van on some grass near rhe recycling depot. Back to the road and onto a large parking area at the rocks with heaps of room for a caravan to turn around!!!!! We then decided to walk up to the point along a track that had been closed to vehicles but said walkers were welcome. 2 Kms later we came to a major gravel road which we could have driven to from another road. I think some effort should be put into signage around the town! Anyway we had glorious views from the top.
We then went back to pick up the caravan and found that we had parked in the local truck parking area making it very difficult for them to park. Too bad.
Back to Pemberton Caravan Park for a shower and charge the batteries overnight as it has been pretty overcast these last few days. Did the weekly food shopping $130 then took a scenic tour via forests and vineyards to Donnelly River. Have arrived here and set up camp for 3 or 4 days.
Were now at the rivermouth of Donnelly River, sunny day but cool. The shacks are very rustic at the Donnelly rivermouth. The only way in is by boat. They used to bring the materials down by barge but CALM have banned any further construction. Around 50 huts, almost all with their own jetties.
The boat trip down the Donnelly River was magical, the mist was rising off the water and no wind created the most wonderful reflections on the water. At times we had to slow down to see where the river went as the trees and reflections merged into one. Unfortunately I forgot to take a photo. About 8 kms from the campsite to the ocean, the last 2 Kms had the shacks.
Karri Valley had quite a few Kangaroos on the golf course. Lake Jasper is a large inland freshwater lake. 4WD only to get in, they evidently tow ski boats in here as well as the ski area is well signposted. Nice camping area for tents and trailers.
We headed off to Nannup which is and old timber town with a few craft stores. Picked up a couple of presents and wandered around for a few hours. Came across Verica, an ex work colleague from RPH, who was holidaying in the area. Drove home via Balingup, (we didn't stop as we have been here many times before) great place to visit with lots of craft shops including the Old Cheese Factory, then via Donnybrook (bought some apples) and onto Perth.
Had a few appointments in Perth then took off for warmer weather.
Dropped in to visit Jock (our Scottish Highland Steer) who now resides at GinGin with Harold and Katrina. He was our pet for almost 4 years.
First stop north was at Ellendale Pool located beneath some massive sandstone cliffs east of Greenough on the Greenough River. Heaps of birdlife here including a pair of Peregrine Falcons who rest on the cliffs opposite. No fees, flush toilets, free gas BBQ's and washing water is available.
A couple of days later we drove to Coalseam Conservation Park in a Gorge on the Irwin River (dry at the moment). Coal was mined here in the 1800's and later during WWII. We arrived too early for the wildflowers but there were still had half a dozen flowering.
Opposite the Fossil picnic area contain many old fossils of shells and plants.
We then headed to Geraldton where we had a few more appointments to get out of the way. Once done we headed straight for Coronation Beach around 30 kms north, where we stayed until after the long weekend.
On one calm day I went snorkelling on the reef and counted around 30 crayfish (lobster) with at least 6 large ones. I got a licence the next day and then went back to find them. The water was very rough and I only found a dozen or so. Caught 4 but 3 were too small. The one which was size escaped as I was putting it into my bag. So close! Will keep trying here or at Kalbarri, I may get lucky yet.
We drove into Northampton for lunch and to pick up some extra water for the weekend. While we were there we went for a walk around the town which has a few old buildings of which we found the old Police Station the most interesting which is now used as the Tourist Information office.
Melinda, our niece and her friend Tracy came up for the weekend from Perth. We went fishing Saturday and caught 8 sand whiting which Melinda and Sandy had for brekkie on Sunday. Tried snorkelling for Crays again with Melinda and found 4 but couldn't catch any, very rough. Tracy chickened out and stayed on the beach with Sandy.
We will be heading to Horrocks, Port Gregory, Kalbarri and Sharks Bay next month. Till then, Too Roo.
Welcome back. We are starting to see a few warmer days now the further we head north. Still no fish but enjoying the scenery.
Coronation Beach cont.
We had visitors at Coronation Beach - Melinda and Tracy her friend came up for the long weekend. It was nice to see friends from Perth.
We headed for Horrocks and stayed at the caravan park. It was very windy but tried fishing at the town beach with no luck.
Our entertainment was watching a new Landcruiser trying to get a boat out of the water, while they were putting the boat on the trailer the water and waves had removed the sand from under the wheels of the cruiser and bogged it. While waiting for another vehicle to snatch them out, the waves were crashing on the back and splashing over the cruiser! I wouldn't want to buy this one.
Just near Horrocks is Hutt River, on the way to the river mouth we passed some caves and rock paintings at WilliGulli.
I caught a small Dart (fish) at the rivermouth but not big enough to eat.
Just behind Port Gregory was the pink lakes (not very pink) which are a source of Beta Carotene. The new road to Kalbarri goes around these lakes on the east side.
The reef extends for 5 km south from Port Gregory and out about 1/2 km thus making the "port" in Port Gregory.
Just out from the Town Jetty, on the inside of the reef, I snorkelled along in quite clear water with a lot of fish to see amongst the reef rocks. Still too cold to get Sandy in the water yet.
Further along towards Kalbarri we took a bush track into Lucky Bay. It appears that a lot of fishing and camping is done here but not advertised at all in the brochures. We found out later that if we travelled North on these tracks we would have reached the Wagoe Sandhills where tour operators go. You can see the sandhills from the new Kalbarri road but access is blocked by private property so the only entrance is via Lucky Bay.
A couple of days in Kalbarri with a cruise down the river in the boat during the day and a meal out at Finlays BBQ restaurant at night. We never miss having a wonderful seafood meal at Finlays when were in town. As we had been here a few times before we didn't go to the Coastal Cliffs or the Gorges. We were going to do some abseiling but the cliffs were only 30 metres and after our abseiling at Margeret river a couple of years ago we were hoping for a 75 to 100 metre drop.
Next stop was at Nanga Bay Resort where we had a dip in the Resort's hot artesian spa with Mr Bubbles. "Mr Bubbles" was a button you pressed to get the spa bubbles going!
Talked to a fisherman coming in in a boat who had 4 lovely pink snapper, 2 were over 70 cm, and found they had travelled out about 15 kms. Too far for me.
On the second day we went for a drive to Shell Beach which kept Sandy busy adding to her new collection of shells.
We rang Denham Shire and got permission to camp for 3 days at Whalebone Camp which is on the way into Denham. We met up with Christina and Adrian at Whalebone, we had camped with them at Coronation Beach. Took Adrian out in the boat about 8 kms and between us we caught 3 long nosed snapper (undersize), almost one 3 foot school shark (which cut the line as we were lifting it into the boat) and some bait fish. Still no fish for tea!!!!!!
On the way into Denham we stopped for morning tea at Eagle Bluff and took a walk along the boardwalk.
We stayed at Denham Seaside Caravan Park where the park workers even dig the holes in the ground for the caravan wheels to level it out. This was a very nice park. We had just found out at Nanga that both the "BIG 4" ($30/2 years) and "TOP TOURIST" ($20/2 years) parks have memberships which give us 10% discount at all there parks throughout Australia. We have joined both as we will be saving $2/night at each of these parks we stay in.
We would have liked to camp in the Francois Peron National Park but no caravans are allowed. Maybe CALM will cater for the offroad vans one day. We went to Little Lagoon, Big Lagoon and on to Herald Bight for a day trip without the caravan. No fish were being caught at either lagoons which are actually clay pans called Birridas which are connected to the ocean. At Herald Bight a couple were catching a few crabs, we put the boat in the water and went out a couple of kilometres and caught some butter fish for bait. Then Sandy caught a small shark around 40cms which I threw back because it looked too small. Later we were told that they are very nice at that size. We didn't try to catch any more fish as there were too many small sharks so we shifted further east. While trying to get away from the seaweed we were watching the ocean floor and came across a patch of pearl shells. I went diving and brought up a couple of dozen. I opened and ate a couple (One shell had a half pearl in it! ) but the pearl meat was so small it wasn't worth the trouble. It tasted a bit like scallop/prawn meat. I kept the rest for bait, the whiting loved it, pity the whiting or the shells weren't a bit bigger.
Heading away from Denham we dropped into Hamelin Pool to look at the Stromatolites.
Spent a couple of nights at Gladstone to get back to the bush away from the caravan parks, much more relaxing in the bush. Christina and Adrian were already there, you just cant get away from some people. Mullet was being caught in nets but little else was around. The larger boats were heading way out to catch the bigger fish. Tried to drive the coastal track to Woolomal Rivermouth but the track finished before we got there. The water is flat, shallow and tidal, we will have to move on north to find deeper water with a better chance to get some fish or have a swim.
Dropped into Carnarvon for a night to wash the car and the caravan, went shopping and did the clothes washing. Were so busy when we get to a town so that we can get out again as quick as possible. Just love the bush.
We had been told by another camper that you should camp at the blowholes until a space becomes available at Quobba Station which has showers and toilets and costs $100 a week. So after Carnarvon we arrived at the blowholes and found that the camping sites just over the dunes along the foreshore were great. A trip 8kms up the coast found that there were only 2 vans at the station, the blowholes has about 50! and it only costs $5 a night. We will be staying here for a few weeks.
At Point Quobba there is an island and a 400 metre sanctuary zone for fish and shells. We went snorkelling here for a couple of hours, Sandy too! It is unbelievable how many fish, sea urchins, clams and oysters are here. The water was crystal clear and ranged in depth from 1 metre to 3 metres. Later on we will go back at low tide when the the water isnt moving so fast to look in the deeper pools. The oysters were tasty, next time I will take a hammer to help open them.
The signs up here warn of King Waves which Kill. At high tide with a big swell you would see the water come over the rocks 6 metres up from the sea!
Myself and Adrian tried to fish from the dinghy in the bay but we had to keep moving all the time to get out of the way of waves coming in from the outer reef. Another dinghy came out and we joined them for an exciting trip out thru the reef around the waves to the open ocean beyond where it was as calm as can be. We caught 6 x blue parrot fish, a couple of black tipped red cod, a sea perch and one pilchard. At last were living on fish!!!!!!
A couple of days later a neighbour caught a 5 foot shark off the beach using a fishing line, dog chain and a large hook. He gave us enough fillets for another 3 meals.
Adrian and Christina invited us for a drive up the coast to see what we could see. We packed a lunch and took off to Cape Cuvier where the salt is dumped at the top and gravity drops it over the cliff to a conveyor belt below which loads it onto ships at the wharf. Also near Cape Cuvier is the shipwreck of the Korean Star which had been partly washed up onto the rocks.
On the 30th of June was my birthday and Sandy had arranged for some campers to come over for pre-dinner drinks.
Peter and Betty turned up with a card and a present. Both ex school teachers and both poets as this is what the card read -
For Peter
As you venture wide & "free" (?)
We hope good fortune follows thee
Through dust & sand & creeks in flood
This country gets into your blood
To stay in bays teeming with fish
This for you is what we wish
Who knows where on this this day
Next year you will stay
So, beers & cheers from two old dears
May our paths cross again in coming years
With this card was a brown bag with memories from the Blowholes.
A piece of driftwood, an oyster shell, a limestone fossil, a piece of coral, a seashell, a leaf and half a bag of sand.
I received many phonecalls, emails, text messages and birthday wishes on this my 46th birthday from friends and family.
Next month may see us venture on to Warroora Station south of Coral Bay. See you then.
Peter and Sandy
Sandy found her dream machine a 6 wheel drive
MAN truck with steel (bullet proof?) flaps on the windows and a
Deutz diesel. The owners are of German origin where the truck was
possibly constructed. It had a Camel bar (too high for kangaroos)
with winch, wind generator, sundeck on rear of roof. The carrier
on top has 2 spare tyres and a small hoist to lift the tyres down
and to help remove the trail bike from the slide out compartment
on the other side.
Drool Drool !!!!!!
We went for a days drive with Adrian, Christina and Goldy through Quobba Station and Red Bluff then onto Gnaraloo Station and Gnaraloo Bay. On the way we saw some whales in the distance (2 - 3 kms) but I didn't remember to take the binoculars so we could only clearly see the whales blowing water spouts.
Red Bluff on Quobba Station cost $35 a week per adult with toilets and rubbish tip, no showers or boat launching facilities. The hills provide protection from the wind for the camping area. Unfortunately 70 kms of rough road and no fresh water available.
Gnaraloo Bay on Gnaraloo Station. The reef between the 2 spits of land protects the bay. Great diving off the beach with heaps of fish to see and really clear water. We both had a ball watching all the fish. There were approx a dozen trailers in the park when we were there and 2 yachts in the bay. If it wasn't so far from fresh water (200 kms) at Carnarvon or the prices were lower and the staff were friendlier then it would be a great place to stay for a while. (We were impolitely told to move the car by a station worker after we stopped at the shop) The 3 mile camp costs $24 a night with toilets and salt water showers, no power available.
At Warroora Station, 14 mile beach camping area with no toilets or showers at $25 a head per week. You can camp behind the dunes or as we did on the beach. I was able to leave the boat next to the shore ready to go fishing easily. The reef is about a kilometre off shore. Squid, golden trevally, spangled emperor and charlie courts are readily caught inside the reef. On calmer days the dinghies go outside the reef to catch mackerel and larger north west snapper.
We had caught octopus on the reef at Turtle rock and tried different ways to eat it. George down the beach minces them, mixing it with potato, onions and a few spices then cooks them on the BBQ, not bad. We have skinned them raw (white when cooked) and steamed them for 45 mins then skinned them (pink when cooked). Christina has marinated them with chili, ginger and garlic. So far I still prefer squid, pan fried with a bit of salt. Unfortunately the squid are a bit quiet at the moment. We even tried putting the gas lantern on the deck of the dinghy trying to attract the squid at night but only managed to get 1 squid and 1 occy. Another boat also tried and got 1 squid and 1 cuttlefish.
While fishing inside the reef we often get our hooks caught on the rocks. I have been diving to retrieve the hooks and enjoying the underwater scenery at the same time. A couple of days ago while rescuing Sandy's hook a nice 6 foot shark saw me as I saw it, we both turned and took off, I don't know who scared who!
We found Don and Marg (friends from Perth) at Coral Bay who have camped with us at Warroora. We all went fishing outside the reef in 2 boats and caught a few nice fish for a couple of nights tea. While we were out there a whale surfaced 50 feet away and we watched it surface a few more times before it dissapeared from view. Peter and Norm in another dinghy had a closer view than we did, as it appeared to go under their dinghy.
About 10 kms north of the camp is a dry riverbed where you can bucket washing water (slightly salty) from holes dug in the riverbed. We got our water and continued over the dunes to the beach where Sandy did the washing. While we waited for the clothes to dry we swam, fished and had lunch on the shore. It sure beats the laundromat!!! Christina and Adrian joined us with their washing while Don and Marg looked on..
On the way to shopping at Coral Bay I drove to Cardabia Station camp area to see if it was OK for us to camp at after we leave Warroora Station. A very rough road and 15 kms later we found a flat muddy area with a dozen campers. The reef was a couple of kms off shore and a very shallow bay. Nowhere as good as Warroora so we will give it a miss and go onto Ningaloo Station. On the way back we stopped in at Bruboodjoo Point about 6 kms from the main Coral Bay road along the coastal road. It would be a terrific day trip (no camping allowed) with lunch in such a protected little swimming beach/bay.
Next month will see us exploring Ningaloo Station and Cape Range National Park. Catch up to us then.
Best Regards
Peter and Sandy
Happy Chappies
Welcome to a new episode. We recently had our 3 monthly update article in the West Australian newspaper. These updates appear in the Caravan and Camping section of Saturdays West and should continue every 3 months for the next 5 years. We have received many emails from this article which we have replied to. Unfortunately 2 days after the article our phone died so we had to return it to Perth for repairs. This delayed us receiving and sending our emails by a few weeks, sorry for those who waited for a reply.
Well Warroora, Cardabia and Ningaloo Stations have received (I've heard) grants to tidy up the camping areas along the coast. Warroora and Ningaloo have graded the access roads, Warroora has blocked all minor tracks. I've also heard that if they dont do this then CALM will take over for the protection of the environment, possibly restricting the camp sites available.
We went for a drive to the southern end of Warroora Station to check out the camping and look at the scenery. We started at the Lagoon which looked very pretty and could be a nice campsite for next time. We were told later that another site exists near the southern boundary a few kms past the lagoon.
The Lagoon - the river is salty but the bay looks lovely, camping on the beach or back behind the dunes. No water is available as far as I could find out but there is a windmill close by for the sheep, the water maybe ok for washing.
We continued back along the coastal track to Steves, Maggies and Pelican Point. Camping is allowed at all these places but no fishing at Pelican Point as it is in a sanctuary zone. We saw a small reef shark swimming at P.P. On another day Sandy and I went snorkelling just south of P.P. but we were dissapointed as the visibility was low (5 metres) and the fish were few.
We shared the petrol costs with Christina and Adrian and Adrian drove us back to Carnarvon to get 3 weeks of shopping and other items. I think we spent around $1500.00 between us. A lot cheaper than shopping in Coral Bay which appears to be making as much profit as they possibly can from the tourists. If Mauds Landing development goes ahead maybe the retail competition will bring the prices down to an acceptable level.
We drove on to Ningaloo Station and first had a look at Jayne Bay near the homestead. Unfortunately camping for caravans is not on the ocean side of the dunes, with a good 500 metres or more walk to the water and no views. If you had a tent then you could camp in the dunes as some had with only half the distance to the water.
Moving on we headed to Lefroy Bay and set up camp on the beach at Point Billie at the southern end of the Bay. We are only 500 metres from the reef at this point and have wonderful views. Boat access outside the reef is restricted to near high tide as the reef is only 2.5 metres deep at this point. About 5 kms south is a passage out near the whaling station ruins and 3 kms north is another point you can get out. No chance of getting outside but have caught 2 x charlie courts and a sweet lip inside the reef. The weather has been unkind to us for this week as it has blown at 20 to 30 knots all week. Our caravan wheels sunk as the wind blew the sand out from one side. We had to change our pillows to the other end of the bed so our feet weren't up in the air!
Had a drive around the other side of the bay to Windibandi Point (maybe that's why it is so windi here) where there are more camping spots amongst the dunes. Continued on into the Exmouth Firing Range and the Bundera Coastal Protection area where camping is allowed at no charge (at the moment). Found a lovely spot 1 km south of the N/P where the American personnel used to camp on the weekends. Called Donny's Camp or The Bus's or on the map its just north of Sandy Point.
2 old left hand drive buses (rusted out) are all that's left here. We will be camping here for a few weeks while we explore Cape Range N/P as the limited camp sites in the park are fully booked out. (Maybe the stations will end up the same way if CALM take them over?) From this camp spot it's 10 kms back to Ningaloo and 10 kms on to Yardie Creek.
Had some terrific snorkelling on the reef and have seen lots of fish, coral, sharks, stigrays, dolphins and turtles. While fishing outside the reef there are heaps of humpback whales swimming past our dinghy. Outside the reef we were fishing in water depths of between 20 and 75 metres. Took Sandy snorkelling the other day and 2 x 6 foot white tipped reef sharks were sleeping under the reef near the boat. Sandy wasn't very happy but we went snorkelling around the reef anyway. When we got back they woke up and swam up and looked at us from about 15 foot away, meanwhile Sandy was heading for the boat REAL fast.
While fishing here I caught a beautiful Coral Trout, 3 meals of delicious fish!
The Bundera Sinkhole is inhabited by a specialised and unique group of animals including a fish "the blind Cave Gudgeon", the Cape Range Remipede, which belongs to a group of primitive crustaceans, known elsewhere only in the Northern Hemisphere and several species of small, blind shrimps. The sinkhole is influenced by the rise and fall of oceanic tides. The waters of the sinkhole are stratified into many layers, each with a unique chemical composition. Different animals live in particular water layers, with varying concentrations of salt, oxygen and hydrogen sulphide. No SCUBA diving is allowed in the sinkhole as it mixes these water layers and threatens these animal communities.
On the way into Exmouth we have to cross Yardie Creek's sandbar. Next month we will go hiking up the gorge.
At Tower Zero (American Communications Antennae) which is on the North West Cape last year on September 11th the campers on the way into Exmouth were confonted by armed guards to make sure that no one stopped near this communications site.
On the way back from shopping in Exmouth we had to be very careful not to hit any of the hundreds of kangaroos in the Cape Range National Park. We also came across a little fella crossing the road an Echidna or Spiny Ant Eater.
Thanks for joining us in our trip, see you next month.
Peter and Sandy looking out for bombs on the firing range!!!
Welcome back,
We have travelled from Cape Range National Park to Karratha this month. We have decided to come back to the Ningaloo reef next May when the water is warmer, that way Sandy can stay in the water longer without freezing! I will be buying her some neoprene gloves and a hood to help keep the cold out and the body warmth in (what little she has!!!). I'm sure she has also enjoyed fresh fish for tea most nights as she gets withdrawl symptoms if we don't go fishing each day!!!! Sandy says she is now a really good fisherperson!
Our camp had terrific ocean views but was also very exposed and windy. Ningaloo reef was only about a kilometre off shore.
We met up with Colin here and we accompanied him out for a dive out thru the reef at a place called "Shark Alley". Colin, Domenic, Sandy and myself anchored just inside the reef and jumped into the water. Colin had scuba and we were snorkelling. No sooner had we started swimming out thru the reef alley than a large 4 foot turtle was swimming in. We came face to face before he turned and swam out again. It was such a surprise and magnificent to come within 10 feet of this turtle. Carrying on we got thru the reef into a sort of laggoon about 18 metres deep and 30 metres across. Here we saw 3 sharks and Colin woke up a huge (8 foot) stingray that was nestled in the sand below. Sandy attempted to climb on top of me when she saw the sharks but slowly relaxed as she became enthralled with the scenery below the water. This is one place we definitely want to go diving at again next year.
At Yardie Creek there is a walk up the North side to a lookout. We carried on past the lookout and climbed down to the water below and walked around the corner but that is as far as you can go unless you start wading. The water was clear and the scenery was breathtaking.
While we walked we searched for the Wallabys that inhabit this gorge. We only found one, it's amazing that they can hop up and down these cliffs where we would have difficulty just climbing. The waters are supposed to have fish as well but we didn't try with Ningaloo so close.
We were told of some caves located in the range behind Pilgramunna, part of the Cape Range N/Park. A large stalacmite (stalactite?) at the entrance with a few smaller ones inside. No bats but sometimes they do inhabit the caves here according to local knowledge. There were possibly 20 or more caves, some small, some big (30 feet by 20 feet). A lot with dead kangaroo bones. The kangaroos would possibly use them for shelter when tourists aren't disturbing them all the time. Inside the main cave was a shawl style stalacmite. 2 or 3 formations were still active in the cave and under one was a small pool of water only 2 inches across.
All up this coast beyond the reef, with a pair of binoculars you can see many whales blowing water into the air or splashing about.
We left Exmouth behind and with a brief wine and cheese stop on the side of the road, to watch the sun go down, we ended up at the old Barridale roadhouse camping spot around 8pm. The next morning we took the good gravel Twitchin Road thru to Old Onslow. We dropped into the deepwater 5 mile swimming pool for a look and set up camp at 3 Mile Pool near the concrete crossing. 20 metres from our camp, in the middle of the river was a dozen pelicans perched on a log. Unfortunately one died the next day and the others never returned. We have since learnt that many pelicans are dying up here due to botulism from the low water levels.
On a day trip we went to Old Onslow ruins. All that was standing was a Police Station with gaol and a larger building with many rooms. Spread throughout the surrounding bush were many foundations of other buildings long since gone.
At the beach near the Ashburton rivermouth the sand was a chocolate brown colour. It was very strange to see. The water was crystal clear and the sand glistened in the sunlight. We came across some incredible patterns in the sand made by the wave actions, consisting of brown, black and white sand.
After leaving Old Onslow we travelled thru Onslow on to James Point at the Fortesque Rivermouth. We got our first puncture here as we were looking for a campsite. Not very scenic and the wind was blowing so we only stayed one night. Evidently there had been an red algae bloom in the tidal creeks which had killed all the fish. We were told that there is some coral offshore so we may drop in next time for a look see.
Next day we went to the 40 mile beach a bit further up the road. This campsite was on the ocean with a 4 metre tide. Very pretty at high tide and lots of rocks at low tide. Tried fishing from the boat but the bottom was very flat and we couldn't find any fish. Another couple caught a few fish using an echo sounder but they said they didn't see many. Maybe if you stayed a while you could find a few spots?
Next we dropped in at Miaree Pool just south of Karratha. Each night I fished with a lure and usually caught 1 or 2 Oxeye Herring around 20cm long. They jump well when caught. Released them all as we didn't want to eat them. One night with the line out while Sandy was cooking tea I caught a small forktail catfish. The last night there while using the lure I caught a lovely Mangrove Jack. It fed us both for tea that night. You wouldn't think you would catch the Jacks this far up in a pool of water.
We took a day trip to the Burrup and drove to Cowrie Cove where we assumed you could camp. The road finished at the mangroves with nowhere to camp unless you tried camping on the rocks or continued on through the the tidal mud.
The Burrup consisted of rocks, rocks and more rocks. They really looked like someone had dumped these huge piles of rocks everywhere. Hearson Cove was for day tripping only, no camping allowed. You could launch your dinghy from here. This beach had toilets and shelters with a good access road.
While camped at Miaree Pool a local told us about Airport Creek past the speedway out near the Burrup/Dampier. Supposed to be good fishing every time he goes there. We gave it a try and travelled about 10 kms and eventually came to a mudflat which looked a bit squishy. As the tide was due to come in we decided not to push our luck and gave fishing a miss.
In Karratha we had the radiator resoldered, the exhaust welded, flat tyre fixed and the fanbelts replaced. I just noticed diesel leaking under the car so will have to check that out too.
Next month will see us travelling to Millstream and Karijini.
Wish you all well.
Peter and Sandy
PS. sorry about the delay in updating this months webpage but we have had to wait until we got to Hamersly Gorge before we had mobile coverage again.
We left Karratha heading for Millstream. On the way thru Pyramid Station a sharp rock went thru a tyre, destroying it. After replacing the tyre 5 minutes further down the road, another rock, another tyre gone. Learnt my lesson and dropped the tyre pressures on all tyres. Have made it all the way to Newman as I write this part of the story without any more tyre problems.
We arrived at Snake Creek a bit more tired than usual, set up camp and went for a refreshing swim at the nearby Python Pool. The water was very low this late in the season, not the same as I remember it 15 years ago. The next day we walked partway along the old Camelier Track that had been built thru the Chichester Ranges. Here we saw Black Powder burns and the resultant star cracks where they removed large chunks of rocks from the old trail and some very interesting dry rock retaining walls. We made it to the lookout on top and had a magnificent view of the area.
We travelled on to Mount Herbert just around the corner and walked 4 kms to McKenzie Springs along another part of the Camelier Track. The springs weren't even trickling but there was a small rockpool with some vegetation.
For all those people who haven't been up here in the north of WA the ground is all spinifex and rocks, the spinifex is very sharp and easily penetrates the skin.
We travelled on via a very corrugated road to Millstream National Park and camped at Deep Reach camping area. Very deep, clean water with ladders to help you get in and out of the river. The water was rumoured to be 18 metres deep which I can believe as its around 5 metres deep on the banks where I went duck diving for my glasses which I had forgot to take off before diving into the water. I only realised I had lost my glasses when I couldn't find them in the caravan 20 minutes later.
The ranger told us we could catch catfish here, just throw a line out overnight and pull it in in the morning. The first night the line took off and thinking it was a catfish I pulled it in by hand instead of using the reel with the line cutting my finger. The fish was jumping 3 foot into the air as I dragged it to the shore. What a beauty, a 55cm Herring with 500grams of fillets. We were already eating our tea that night so put the fillets in the fridge for the next night. The following night we cooked some but found that it had gone a bit soft overnight. We gave the fillets to some visiting German tourists who enjoyed the fillets for their tea.
We cast the line in again the next night and at around 10pm it appeared someone was knocking on the van. I suddenly realised it was my rod being pulled by a fish and banging back against the van. I jumped out of bed totally uncoordinated and nearly fell out the door only to drag in a small catfish, not a big fish this time. Being so late in the evening I released it back into the river.
The ranger told us we could catch some Mangrove Jacks up George Gorge from the river crossing on Snappy Gum Drive. We went for a drive and found the spot but I think you should really try around sunset as nothing even looked at my lure that afternoon.
Carried on around to the other camping area at Crossing Pool for a look. If you didn't have solar it is a nice shady, treed camping area on the river. Millstream Homestead was a bit disappointing as our memories remind us of the wetlands full of water lilies which are no longer there. A lot of kangaroos live around the homestead including many which have joeys in their pouches. A tavern was still running from the homestead last time we were here, now CALM looks after it as an information centre. Well the creeks are still there with some lilies but it now appears to be lacking some tender loving care. Most Date Palms have been chopped down leaving only the Millstream Palms and dead palm fronds are scattered everywhere with a type of water plant taking over from the water lillies in the streams. The area appears to have dried out considerably.
Onto Karijini with our first stop at Hamersley Gorge. The colours are wonderful with the rock seams bent as the earth was pushed up into the ranges. We took a walk along the gorge following small rock cairns left by others. After a couple of kms the rocks disappeared, while searching for them Sandy asked where the dripping water was. We then saw a rock pile under a tree on the side of the gorge and on further investigation we found the Grotto in the wall of the gorge. Around 8 metres across and 75 metres high with maidenhair type ferns on the wall with the water dripping down. The water in the pool was a milky blue with a tangled bunch of roots growing across the entrance holding the water back. It was a very pleasant surprise to come across.
We stayed at Hamersley Gorge because we had mobile coverage and we needed to send some emails and update the web. The next day we set up the van at Weano Campgrounds ready to explore Weano and Hancock Gorges. We went down Hancock (level 2 and the hardest of the lot) with our lunch and climbed all the way past Kermit pool almost to Junction Pool. At this point with a swimming pool and a sunny rock we had lunch while watching the antics of other climbers. One girl fell in, jeans and all, then took the easy way and swam the next part. Sandy had already been thru the hardest part, 10 metres up with only a small handhold to get around an outrock with no ledge to support you. She had been thinking about this while we ate lunch and began to get nervous about going back. Later we heard that someone else didn't make it back a week before and the rangers rescued her the next day. After a few stops Sandy made it back and was now ready for anything!
We climbed down Weano Gorge and went onto Handrail Pool, so named because a steel handrail and a rope are used to get down about 4 metres to the pool. We came across Luke, who we met the day before at Hancock, and he showed me the way thru to the end of Weano where you have to climb down a 100 metre rockface if you want to go any further. Unfortunateley on the way I slipped and fell into the water camera and all! Lucky the camera was in a bum bag and didn't suffer any water damage. When we reached the waterfall I was happy to stop and go back to Handrail Pool where Sandy was waiting, Luke carried on down the rockface and into Hancock Gorge.
While at Weano Campsite a Guide from Snappy Gum Tours approached me to blow up some tyre tubes for a trip he was doing later that day down Joffre Gorge. He told us how to get to Bee Gorge in the Hamersley Ranges outside the National Park. The next day we drove to Bee and had the whole Gorge to ourselves . A couple of swimming holes and waterfalls up to 10 metres high that I climbed down while Sandy waited for me at the top. Meanwhile Luke and others had swum down Joffre and later that night told us about their experience. I decided to give it a go a couple of days later. I donned my wetsuit and flippers, carried some water, lunch and hiking gear in a backpack, which I was able to float beside me. This was the highlight of my trip to Karijini, floating on my back lazily swimming thru the gorge sometimes only metres wide and 100's of metres high listening to the sounds of birds. Very peaceful, I was hoping it wasn't going to end but 4 hours later after around 3 kms of swimming and some hiking I took off my wetsuit, had lunch and hiked up and out of the gorge back to Knox carpark where Sandy was waiting for me. The water was too cold for Sandy but I found I had to regularly let some cool water into my dive suit as I was getting too hot.
We scrambled down Knox Gorge and swam and lazed around keeping cool in and next to a waterhole. We went left to a narrow cleft in the gorge where the next step is a blind 6 metre slide then a drop 10 metres into a deep waterhole. One way only, no way back up after the drop into the pool, you then had to find a different way out, usually thru Hancock. We turned around at this point and went the other way up the gorge until we came to a pool of water, which you either had to swim to continue or turn around. Here we stopped and made our way back to camp with one last swim at the pool.
We dropped into Kalamina Gorge which was a lot smaller than the others but just as pretty in its own way. Most people had been telling us how good Dale's Gorge is with Circular and Fern Pool's and Fortesque Falls. These were all nice but very crowded. The camping area was definitely the best of all the campsites but I believe they will be soon improving the Joffre Campsite.
Next we were to spend a couple of weeks at the waterholes around Newman but after 3 waterholes and a few days we decided to give them a miss. Our first was Wunna Munna and as in all the waterholes around Newman it appears that you should be here before the end of August if you want to cool down in some water. The roads were atrocious with Weeli Wolli taking us 2 1/2 hours for 40 kms and Eagle Rock Falls road so bad Sandy couldn't even walk along it.
While at Weeli Wolli Sandy had gone ahead on foot to try and find some water for a photo, I followed a little later. I heard some noise coming from the scrub in the centre of the creekbed and thought it was Sandy. While watching the spot a Bull came out of the scrub heading my way. I wasn't sure if it was friendly or not so as soon as it looked at me I waved my hands around to see what response I got. Well it took off alright, away from me but in the direction Sandy had taken! Well at least it wasn't aggressive so Sandy should be OK. 30 seconds later there was an almighty scream and Sandy came tearing up from the creek where the bull had just disappeared. I couldn't stop laughing, she had thought it was me coming thru the scrub until she heard the hoofbeats and realised what it was. She was looking for a tree when she saw it crash out of the scrub coming straight at her. That was when she screamed and took off with jelly legs trying to get away from the "mad bull". By this time the bull was also running in a different direction somewhere down the river trying to get away from us.
We stopped in Coorinda Creek riverbed (the road was too rocky to go any further) 500 metres before Eagle Rock Pool and enjoyed the solitude for 2 days. The temp hit 43 degrees in the shade under the awning and I spent the hottest part of the day reading a book while turning the shower on me every 20 minutes to cool down. As Sandy loves the heat she thought it was great and went for a walk!
As the waterholes appear to be dry and uninviting around here at this time of the year we decided that we would head for Dongara via Geraldton. On the way we stopped at Walga Rock, 50 kms west of Cue. A 2 km long monolithic rock standing 50 metres high on the surrounding flat scrublands. This is the second largest monolith in the southern hemisphere, I assume Ayres Rock is the largest. There was a lot of goats, kangaroos and birds around and on the rock. On the first night there we climbed to the top and on the south west corner we were able to get mobile phone coverage, we made a few phone calls and sent some emails.
According to the map there is a meteorite crater near here discovered in 1961. We found the crater with Sandy's expert navigating. The gravel roads along here are excellent all the way to the crater. Australia has 18 authenticated meteorite impact sites and this the Dalgaranga Meteorite Crater is the smallest one at 25m diameter and 5m deep.
The crater was discovered in 1920 by a stockman, Billy Seward, when he almost rode into it full gallop during a muster on the station. The station manager Gerard Wellard gathered up about a gallon container of fragments and sent them to the WA Museum for analysis. The fragments were lost until 1938 when the analysis was finally done and the crater was authenticated. In 1961, a Professor Pearl of the US flew to WA to examine the crater and wanted to find Mr Willard. Unfortunately the analysis had been registered as Mr Willard, not Wellard so Prof Pearl couldn't locate him. Disappointed he set sail for home on board a cruise ship. Three days later his wife was talking to another lady on the ship and the subject of meteorites came up. Incredibly the other woman turned out to be Mrs Wellard on a world cruise with her husband Gerard!
Imagine what it would have been like to witness the fireball falling out of the sky and the explosion that followed.
We carried on along this great gravel road thru Yalgoo, 10k south to Jokers Tunnel which is an old horizontal gold mineshaft which goes right thru a hill. It was full of crickets and bats with a lizard or two. Sandy didn't want to go in, I wonder why. Located in Gnow's Nest Range near Yalgoo. William Nottle discovered gold here in 1894, and when the Yalgoo Gold Field was declared the following year his gold mining lease beacame known as Yalgoo Joker. Within a year 16 other leases were registered with names associated with card games such as Left Bower, Right Bower, Full Hand, King of Hearts, Queen of Hearts etc. The gold here was found in rich pockets - fifty kilos of rock returned 3 kilos of gold.
We arrived at Geraldton for a big van and car cleanup before heading further south for more fishing if the wind lets us. Two days of cleaning later we headed for Dongara and learnt of the 2002 Larry Lobster Festival so have decided to hibernate back at Ellendale Pool for a week or so before the festival starts on the 8th of November. The 12 Volt Shop sent me a new fan for the fridge which is now working well. I've got a few things to work on such as a windscreen wiper motor that doesn't work, a high beam that doesn't work, some paintings to finish and other miscellaneous jobs. This will keep me busy for a while at Ellendale. It is very windy at Dongara so hopefully Ellendale will be calmer and warmer.
We will catch up with you next month, we hope all our readers are well planning for your next trip.
Bye
Peter and Sandy
No more Bull stories this month but thank you all for your emails, how about a dog story!
We had a pleasant stay at Ellendale Pool while we did a few repairs on the car and caravan. A fellow camper who we had never met and only seen once in two days had a beautiful big Bloodhound (Shadow) which Sandy was admiring from afar. She noticed on our third day that Shadow had tangled his rope around any obstruction it could find The owner (never did find out his name) always stayed in his camper during the day to keep away from the flies and wasn't likely to rescue Shadow until much later that day. So Sandy went across calling out "is your dog friendly?" an answer came from the camper "He doesn't bite!" Sandy then untangled Shadow and got slobbered for her kind efforts, very friendly dog. The next day she was presented with a nice bottle of wine on behalf of Shadow from the owner. We were also told Shadow's other name was arsehole as that is all you can see when he is "on the scent" tracking!
After Ellendale we went back to Dongara and set up camp in the Tourist Park at Port Denison. A very clean park with music piped to the ablution block and a large undercover immaculate BBQ area. Our campsite was set between the sand dunes and was quite private, not like your normal park. Other travellers had told us that this is THE place to stay while in Dongara and we agree. Melinda, our niece, visited us from Perth this weekend and accompanied us to the Larry Lobster Festival and The Blessing of the Fleet. The festival was nice but small while the boat show was out numbered by the canoes 4:1 with about 20 canoes. We returned around 8pm for the concert and watched the fireworks at 9pm. Back to the van for more drinks and talk for the rest of the night. The next morning we strolled down to the foreshore past the previous days stalls which had moved from Dongara to the foreshore of the marina at Port Denison. Never having seen a "Blessing of the Fleet" before we were pleasantly surprised to see the effort that had been put into about a dozen of the forty crayboats to make them stand out from the crowd. One boat had a bathtub on the foredeck with sheep in a coral on the deck and an old corrugated iron loo out the back. Both the bath and the loo were occupied!
Leaving Dongara we took the new Indian Ocean Drive down the coast past many Crayfisherman shacks that that have been put together on the coastal area over the past umpteen years. I believe these squatters may be moved on with the shacks removed in the coming years. A pity really as it is a part of the history of the area and are a tourist attraction. Thru Leeman to camp at Green Head for a few days. The coastal area has a lot of limestone rocks on the foreshore with heaps of reef offshore. The shire has provided many picnic areas and good gravel roads along the coast. Unfortunately the wind hasn't stopped blowing and we have been told it only stops for a few months in winter!
A day trip took us to the Stockyard Gully Caves. The caves were created by a river system, which ran below ground level, at certain points the cave ceiling collapsed forming the gullies. In the cattle droving days, cattle were held in the gully, which was then blocked to form a natural stockyard. There are many natural beehives clinging to the rockfaces in the gully. The cave or tunnel is around 300 metres long and twists around thru the limestone. Inside after the first corner it is totally black until you get to the other end. Even though we didn't see any there are supposed to be chocolate bats in the cave. Other caves appear along the gorge but signs warn you against entry. The river runs thru the caves and a good time to visit is supposed to be in spring.
We continued on to Jurien bay where we set up camp for a few days. Some friends dropped in on us, on there way back from Broome. Russell, Sandy and I went out to Sandy Bay so that I could attempt to get some crayfish again. The visibility was down to 8 feet and I only found one undersize crayfish which I didn't attempt to catch. Sandy and Russell threw my fish fillets bait out as they said it smelled a lot. It was fine when I put it in the back of my car 5 weeks before!
On my map I found a reference to Drover's Cave in the Drover's Cave National Park. This cave was not mentioned on any tourist maps at all. We went driving and eventually found the cave but CALM had previously been here and cemented a door onto the cave. We were told that when they assess the cave they might open it up to the public again. It looks like the door has been on it a long time already so we may have to wait another 5 or 10 years for CALM to get around to it.
The wind was still blowing and when we set up camp at Moore River caravan park I couldn't even put the tv antennae up as it was blowing so much. The next day we decided to head back to Perth and get all our repairs done and lots of appointments out of the way.
In Perth we booked the caravan in for a few warranty repairs and then had to wait 10 days!!!!! for Windsor to approve the repairs before they could be done. We picked up our new custom made shower/toilet tent which appears to be exactly what we want thanks to GK Trimmers in Albany Highway, only $488. I have installed a new radio/CD in the caravan and a few other modifications that were required. The car and van have been serviced and were now heading off to Albany/Esperence for a few months.
As you can see on our itinery we have now decided to head to Queensland next year as we have only spent a few weeks there on our last trip. How things change all the time, it's nice to be free.
Have a very Merry Christmas and we will see you all in 2003.
Peter and Sandy
Welcome back, we managed to see most but not all of the people we wanted to see in Perth before we left for Albany but we felt it was time to leave to keep sane. After visiting my brother Colin and his girlfriend Sandy in Mandurah we had an overnight stop at Martup Pool near Arthur River. We arrived at the Kalgan River C/P in Albany for 4 days. Here we did the tourist thing and visited all the places to see before heading on to a bush camp further east.
In the Torndirrup National Park we visited the Salmon Holes where the salmon come for rest and relaxation in the off season. Jimmy Newhills Harbour where the historians are still trying to work out if it was named after a farmer or a prisoner. The Natural Bridge where a man had just been blown off the bridge to the ocean below. He suffered broken ribs, a punctured lung and a fractured arm. His son jumped in to help him and the SES, Police and an ambulance were there when we arrived. The SES were about to bring him up in a stretcher. Later a visit to the Wind Farm consisting of 12 wind turbines, each a 100 metres high supplying 75% of Albany's electricity needs. Each blade is 35 metres long, the same length as the wing of a Jumbo Jet.
While in Albany we also visited the Princess Royal Fortress. It was opened in 1893 as the first federal defence of Australia and closed in 1956 without ever firing a shot in anger. The fort was closed, dismantled and vandalised and has now been partially restored. Here we found, the original Breville plunger washing machine. A metal conical plunger is connected to the handle above. It also has a drain hose on one side. Undo the handle and load the clothes, drop the plunger in on top then start pumping. When finished drain the water and add fresh water to rinse. Now all we need is a manufacturer to make these again for campers. I bet they would sell like hotcakes!
We couldn't leave Albany without a trip to Whaleworld. The old Cheyne Beach whaling station closed in 1978 and became a tourist attraction from 1980. There are Flensing Decks, Whale meat cookers, Whale skeletons, boiler house, storage tanks and art collections. Along with a moving holographic display showing the day the whaling station was closed thru the life of a whalers family. The Malcolm Green aircraft display in the Whaleworld complex had a Catalina flying boat and model and a Sikorsky flying boat along with a Cessna 337 whale spotter and other memorabilia.
We drove from Albany to Betty's Beach that is located at the east end of Two Peoples Bay. Unfortunately Albany Council had decided that caravans take up too much room and had banned them. This would have been a nice protected place to camp. We then drove to Waychinicup N/P and found that CALM had been working hard here doing up the roads and campsites but yet again no room for caravans, tents only!!!! The tent sites are flat, separated from each other by the bush and have a layer of loose blue metal to assist drainage when it rains. Pity they couldn't see fit to include a few larger sites during the renovations for the other 75% of travellers in trailers, caravans and motorhomes.
So heading further east our next stop was at Cheyne Beach which had a caravan park but we were really looking for some bush so that we could relax for a few weeks over Christmas / New Year. We had a chat to two CALM rangers who told us of a 4WD track from Cheyne Beach to a lookout from which we could see Bald Island just off the coast.
We decided we had scouted far enough east so we went back to Albany. The next day we packed the van at Kalgan River C/P and headed to Cape Ritchie with our fingers crossed that they allow caravans there.
Hooray !!!! a nice spot for caravans and tents alike. It has a boat ramp, cold showers, free gas bbqs and flush toilets. Only $5.50 a night, we have set up camp and will be staying for Christmas / New Year.
First day's fishing saw 2 rock cod, 1 goat fish and a squid for entree. So far so good. Just offshore is Cheyne Island which we will be exploring soon. There are supposed to be lots of fairy penguins living on the island. It has been raining here for a few days so I've been playing with some ink and watercolur paintings on gauche paper.
Tucked in the trees beside the camping area is "The Shed" where wool bales, sandalwood and mallet bark were stored awaiting the arrival of the coastal sailing ship, bringing in the mail and supplies.
Fishing has been good with enough for a couple of meals each time we go out. Our neighbours have just given us some fillets from a Baldchin Groper. Sandy's happy again.
A couple of days ago we had some lightning and thunder then it started to rain. At first with some hailstones then for an hour enough water was dumped to flood the campsites. Most tents were drowned and we ended up with a small lake which came under our van and into the annexe. A dinghy was floating next door beside a tent which was 8 inches under. The ground dried out overnight and we cleaned up the next day. The washing on the line got an extra rinse!
January the 5th should see us heading towards Bremer Bay and some bush camps around the area.
Hope you all enjoy your New Year celebrations. We will be staying up till midnight and then up again around 4am to watch the sun rise over the water on New Year's day.
Till next next year, take care.
Peter & Sandy