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 above: Randy cycling along the Skeena River in British Columbia |
History
Notes for Cyclists
The Yellowhead Highway is very flat. This combined with the strong westerlies makes for very easy and enjoyable cycling. However, the country here is remote and distances between towns are great, sometimes up to 300 K's, making it important to keep an eye on supplies and ask questions regarding the next availability of supplies. Unless you are keen to cycle 300 K's a day, you will also need to plan on some wild camping. Because there is no other option, this practice appears to be tolerated by the Rangers and Mounties. Many of the rest areas have signs saying "NO CAMPING", which apparantly refer only to car camping (although they do it anyways). Generally, we preferred to wild camp in the wild, rather than at a rest stop with a bunch of motorists though. Another related issue is bears, see our bear page for more info on bears.
Prince Rupert to Terrace (153 K)
Starting on Kaien Island in the town of Prince Rupert, the Yellowhead joins the mainland via a bridge and after about 25 K's, joins the magnificent Skeena River. There are a few minor hills on the way to reach the Skeena, but after that the highway is as flat as a pancake for the next 1500 K's or so until the climb up to the Rockies begins. The Skeena is a large river, much larger than we expected, and the road closely follows the river banks, allowing for great views and easy cycling. There are also strong predominant westerlies that help push you along and make the cycling that much easier.
In front of you will be the rugged Coastal Mountains of British Columbia, quite an intimidating sight for a cyclist. There is no need to worry though, the highway follows the valley right through the mountains with little, if any, climbing involved. It is important to note that distances between towns on the Yellowhead can be substantial, making it very important to ensure you have adequate supplies. It is also important for cyclists to either be self-sufficient with a tent and sleeping bag.
Terrace to Hazelton (137 K)
The Yellowhead continues to follow the Skeena River towards the Coastal Ranges. Just past the Indian village of Kitwange is the turn off to the famous Cassiar Highway up to Alaska. We found a wild camping spot just before Hazelton and then called in to the Vistor's Centre for morning coffee. There is a picnic table right there for brekkie, the coffee is free, and the toilets flush...what more could you ask for? B.C. Vistors Centres continue to provide these services until Prince George so we recommend calling in whenever you see one. Hazelton is a tourist town devoted to Indian culture. The local B.C. Vistors Info Centre has a good display (as well as flush toilets and free coffee). For people that want even more, the K'san Indian Craft Village is only a few K's out of town. There are also 8 Indian villages in the area for real Indian enthusiasts to explore (we didn't though).
Junction with the Cassiar Highway to Alaska |
Hazelton to Houston (143 K)
Leaving Hazelton, the Yellowhead continues through beautiful contryside to the Moricetown Canyon, where you may be lucky enough to watch Indians balance on the river rocks to spear salmon. From there the route continues through the town of Smithers and Telkwa to the logging town of Houston. We were lucky enough to find a city park right next to a pub where we camped for the night.
Houston to Rose Lake (60 K)
Rose Lake to Fraser Lake (90 K)
Along the way we were stopped by a dairy farmer named Conrad, who invited us to stay with him near Fraser Lake. In the morning, I noticed my rim was damaged (the braking surface had worn through), so he drove us into Fraser Lake township to get it fixed. Here we met a group of 3 cyclists, each on an epic trip of their own - Toshi was Japanese cyclist just starting a 5 year round-the-world tour, Herbie was a Dutch cyclist nearing the end of his round-the-world-tour (just 18 months to go), and Alex was another Dutchman on a short 2 year holiday from Alaska to Tierra Del Fuego, Argentina. Unfortunately, the bike shop at Fraser Lake was only small and they weren't able to fix the wheel. So we hitched a ride with a classmate of Paul McCartney's to the next town (Prince George - about 150 K's away). We would meet up with this group later...
above: We met Alex and Herbie at Fraser Lake |
above: Jody showed some leg to get us a ride |
Prince George to Dome Creek (100 K)
Prince George is a large city, and it is important to stock up on supplies here, as there are no supplies for the next 200 K or so. Although we stayed in Prince George because I needed bicycle repairs done, it may also be worthwhile camping just West of Prince George and shooting for Purden Lake Provincial Park the following day to avoid staying in a hotel. This is what the 3 round-the-world cyclists did. We saw them in town and had coffee together, but we would meet yet again later down the Yellowhead... There is a bit of a climb out of Prince George, and it is a good 20 K before you clear the farmland and are back into the forest. After 40 K, the Purden Lake Provincial Park offers camping if you have gotten a late start or camped out of town per my previous suggestion. You may also be able to get some basic supplies here, although we found them quite expensive. There is a sign just down the road that says 'No Supplies - next 144 K's'. After this sign the scenery becomes spectacular and the road becomes hillier. The Carriboo Mountains appear ahead of you making this one of the most scenic stretches of the route. It is also one of the most remote and we saw a few bears along this stretch - one crossed the road just in front of us and another paced alongside us in the ditch. Unless you want to cycle 150 K through hilly country, wild camping is the only option. We chose to camp near the locality of Dome Creek, where there are no facilities other than a truck stop and payphone. The mosquitos around here were extremely fierce - you have been warned!
above: Meeting the world travellers at Dome Creek |
Dome Creek to Mc Bride (100 K)
The next morning we surrendered to the mosquitos and called into the diner for morning coffee and a bit of brekkie. After a few sips of coffee, the 3 round-the-world cyclists appeared down the road, followed closely by a swarm of giant Canadian mosquitos. They had the same plan as us - get indoors for brekkie! After a nice brekkie and a few coffees, we decided to form a group and cycle together at least as far as Jasper. Our goal for the day was the township of McBride, in the foothills of the Rockies. Along the way an amazing thing happened - we were cycling along in very hot weather (in the 30's, I would guess), when a big semi-trailer truck passed in front of us and pulled over onto the shoulder. The driver got out with an ice chest and handed us all ice cold Cokes! Cheers! At McBride, we were lucky enough to meet a family of Mennonite dairy farmers, who fed drove us high into the mountains for dinner and then let us camp on their farm.
above: This truck driver stopped to give us ice cold cokes! |
above: We stayed on this dairy farm near McBride |
above: Herbie and Toshi climbing up to McBride |
above: This Mennonite family fed us dinner and let us camp on their dairy farm. |
Mc Bride to Mt. Robson (100 K)
As you would expect at the foothills of the Rockies, the scenery around here is spectacular - mountains rise up all around you. But remember these are just the foothills! There are a few campgrounds and rest areas along this route, as well as a small store at the township of Tete Juan Cache. Around this area the traffic also starts to increase, although the highway continues to have a nice shoulder and cycling remains quite safe. This is also where the real climbing up to the Rockies begins. Don't worry though, the grade is gentle and the scenery makes the ride quite pleasant. On the way there is a short 10 minute trail to Rearguard Falls, which is worth a visit. Towards the end of the day, the imposing figure of Mt. Robson will appear in front of you. This is one of the highlights of the tour and it is quite an impressive sight, being the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. There is a Visitors Centre here, and a few campgrounds to choose from. We had a 'rest' day here, which we used to ride/hike out to Berg Lake on the back side of Mt. Robson. This is a spectacular trail of which the first 10 K's or so are open to mountain bikes. From there you lock up the bikes and hike through the Valley of 1000 Waterfalls to Berg Lake. Whatever you do - do not miss this trail!
above: Jody and Randy approaching Mt. Robson |
above: Jody on the Berg Lake trail. |
above: Another view of the waterfall from previous photo. |
above: Jody crosses a fast-flowing river on the Berg Lake trail.. |
above: Jody, Alex, and Toshi in the Valley of 1000 waterfalls. |
Mt. Robson to Jasper (100 K)
Helpful Links
- B.C. Ferries
- B.C. Tourism
- Cross-Canada Bicycle Touring FAQ
- Cycle the Americas Alex cycled with us for a couple weeks on his way to Argentina
- Randy and Jody's on-line Yellowhead Highway photo album
- Randy and Jody's 2nd on-line Yellowhead Highway photo album
- Toshi's Website Toshi is a Japanese that cycled with us for one month
- The Yellowhead Highway Association