Around and About in Van Diemens Land
The North East
 
1. Northeast to Lilydale

Leave Launceston by the West Tamar highway to head north towards Beaconsfield. The distance to Lilydale is approx 160km, travelling on good tar roads. Beaconsfield, population 900, near the entrance to the Tamar valley, is the richest gold mining town in the state. Between 1877 and 1914 the Tasmania mine produced 835,556 ounces until closure due to flooding. Pumps taking out 36 million litres of water a day were as famous as the mines. The Grubb Shaft Museum contains history of the mines and the steam and electric railways serving the area. Return south, cross the spectacular Batman Bridge, and travel north along the East Tamar highway to Bell Bay.

Bell Bay is an industrial port containing an aluminium smelter and Tasmania's first thermal power station. Tours of the Aluminium Smelter are available twice daily; be sure to find the times before arriving at Bell Bay. Vessels up to 55,000 tonnes deliver bauxite to the smelter, and annually export 120,000 tonnes of aluminium. Continue south down the East Tamar highway and take the turnoff to Turners Marsh Lower. Head towards Lilydale via Karoola.

Lilydale, population 350, is famous for it's Apple Cider and sits under Mt Arthur (1,197m). Local attractions are the two small waterfalls in the reserve 3km north of town. The Oak tree at the entrance was bought from Windsor Great Park and planted on the coronation day of King George VI. Head north to Pipers Brook via the turnoff just past Lebrina.


Batman Bridge on the road to Bell Bay
 

The Pathway to St Columba Falls
2. South-East from Lilydale to Herrick

The distance is approx 150km, travelling on a tarred road to Scottsdale (with the exception of a 3km dirt section between Pipers Brook and Lebrina) and then the Tasman highway to St Marys. Pipers Brook, 2km south of the main road, with its weather similar to the wine areas of France, is in the states prime wine growing area. The vineyard produces wines in the European cold climate style. Head east towards Bridport.

Bridport, population 750, is a resort on the north coast. The local industry is scallops, with beds in Anderson Bay, and a trout farm to the west of town. The large local restaurant, which always seems to change hands between my visits, has excellent seafood meals. Turn south towards Scottsdale. Nabowla, 13km west of Scottsdale, may be worth a round trip during the four weeks from Boxing Day, when the flowers in Bridestowe Lavender Farm are in bloom.

Scottsdale, population 1,900, is the main town in the northeast. Local produce includes sheep, cattle, hops and most of Australia's frozen vegetables from the local processing plant. Tasmania's largest export crop of poppy blooms colourfully in the fields from January to February. Ringarooma is on a southeast detour from the highway. The township has a rundown appearance, but the hotel has cheap bed and breakfast. Mathinna Hill presents views down the river valley and across Mt Victoria Forest Reserve.

Derby, population 300, was the largest tin mining town in the area with a 100m high mine face; and was the deepest and largest hydraulic tin mine in the southern hemisphere. It suffered a disaster on the 4th of April 1929 when torrential rain burst the Briesis Dam, sweeping 3.5 million tonnes of water through town and killing 14 people. The mine and the town never recovered. Herrick is the terminus of the disused Herrick Branch Line. Look for a water tank and tracks in an paddock at the edge of town.

3. South-East from Herrick to the East Coast

The distance is approx 120km, on the Tasman highway to St Marys. Moorina, named after Truganinis sister, had an almost totally Chinese population in the gold rush days of the 1880's. The Chinese section of the cemetery has an altar with a conical oven to prepare food for departed relatives. A 264 carat sapphire, the largest in Tasmania, was found here beside the main road.

Weldborough, now a ramshackle village, was so prosperous in the tin mining 1870's that it was said the lights never dimmed. The hotel has cheap bed and breakfast. Weldborough Pass winds through a dense subtropical rainforest of Blackwood, Myrtle and Sassafras.

Pyengana, just off the highway, is aboriginal for 'land of two rivers' - the North George and the South George, both of which are populated with trout. The local guest house/restaurant is famous as The Pub in the Paddock. A 12km dirt road heads southwest up the valley to a small carpark, where a walking track begins and takes you through rainforest with 5 metre tall ferns, across a clear stream to photogenic St Columba Falls (110m).

         
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