Around
and About in Van Diemens Land The North-West |
| 1. West from Devonport to Stanley |
The distance is approximately 100km, traveling over the Bass highway. Expressway exists between Devonport and Burnie. Devonport, population 24,000, is situated on the Mersey river. Mersey Bluff on the western side of town contains aboriginal carvings plus the Tiagarra Arts and Crafts Centre. Waverley, the ship depicted on the $5 note, was wrecked on Don Heads in 1880. Don, a suburb on the western side of Devonport, contains the Don River Railway Museum (phone (004)246-335), open from 0900am-1600pm daily. It is the largest rail museum in Tasmania and well worth the visit as it contains 3 foot 6 inch gauge steam locomotives, diesels railcars, plus carriages and wagons. Railcars or Steam trains are operated daily along the 4km museum track, while Steam hauled trains operate over Australian National lines between mid April to November, and Emu Bay Railway lines on historic occasions. Ulverstone, population 8,900, on the Leven river, is a farming area famed for its rich brown volcanic soil. In the riverside park is a floodlit fountain which gives a 15 minute show. Three 17 metre pillars in the main street are an armed forces memorial. Penguin, population 2,500, was developed during the Victorian gold rushes to supply housing wood. Fairy penguins live along the coast in rookeries, and come ashore at night. In the old school building is a model railway layout featuring Märklin trains. Burnie, population 20,400, on the Emu river, is a busy port exporting ore, wood, paper and dairy products. You can tour both the APPM Paper Mill and the Lactos Dairy Factory on the eastern side of town. Accommodation can be had at the pub across the road from the Australian National (AN) station for $15 Bed & Breakfast. Railways started from here in 1878 with the Van Diemens Land Company tramway to Rouses Camp near Waratah. The Emu Bay Railway (EBR) has a shunting yard almost under the rail over-bridge in the centre of town. If you are prepared to start early and ride in the locomotives to see incredible scenery, there is a free train journey down the west coast. Go to the office at the back of the yard and ask the Traffic Supervisor to sign a release. One trip (0600am-1400pm) travels along the branch line to the Hellyer Gorge Mine, the other (0500am-1500pm) goes the full length of the line to the ore sheds at Primrose Junction, north of Zeehan. See it before it goes. A reminder - take food, drink and warm clothing. Late Breaking News - The 100 year old E.B.R. has been sold on 21/05/98 to Australian Transport Network's Tasrail operation. The Burnie workshops will be closed, and the unique collection of narrow gauge locomotives and rolling stock are to be sold off. Somerset, a fishing village, is at the start of the Murchison highway. Try the local restaurants for a good feed of crayfish. Wynyard, population 4,400, on the Inglis river, is the centre of a dairying area for the largest cheese factory in the state. Excellent views along the coast can be had from Table Cape, the flat topped volcanic plug looking over Freestone Cove. Detour via the Golf Club for a look at Fossil Bluff with its marsupial fossils. Boat Harbour, population 300, is a resort on a crescent shaped beach of clear water, fine sand and tropical vegetation. Port Latta has the largest vessels to visit Tasmania loading iron ore pellets from the 2.2km jetty. The ore is transported as a slurry in a pipeline from the Savage River Mine. Wiltshire Junction is the western end of the Australian National railway lines. Branch lines went to Stanley and Smithton. Stanley, population 700, is the oldest town in the northwest and is dominated by Circular Head ('The Nut'), a 135m high volcanic plug. The town contains many heritage buildings, such as the Plough Inn (1836), the Edwardian Laughton House (1906) and Prime Minister Joe Lyons cottage. Highfield (1826), built as the headquarters of the Van Diemens Land Company, still stands on the shoreline. A fleet of 30 fishing boats supply fresh seafood to the Co-op wharf, where decent crayfish can be bought. |
![]() Devonport as seen from Mersey Bluff |
![]() The Don River Railway Museum |
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![]() Ulverstone as seen from the Bass Highway |
![]() Emu Bay Railway train at Hellyer Gorge Mine |
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![]() Circular Head 'The Nut', with the township of Stanley |
![]() Highfield, Van Diemans Land Company headquarters |
| 2. Southeast from Stanley to Waratah |
From Stanley to Marrawah is approx 50km over the Bass highway. From Marrawah to Savage River is approx 150km over a well graded dirt road. From Savage River on is tarred road. Smithton, population 3,300, on the Duck river, is rich farmland reclaimed from swamp. Cape Grim is a via a 45km bus tour to see the workings of Woolnorth (1830), the historic Van Diemens Land Company homestead. Its 250,000 acres contain an air monitoring station measuring the purest air in the world. Christmas Hills has a great pub with restaurant and open fire. It is well worth the stop just for its excellent trout meals and mixed grills. Brittons Swamp has bones of animals from 37,000 years ago, including giant wombats and kangaroos plus Nototherium, a bullock size marsupial. The remains are assembled in the Hobart and Launceston museums. Marrawah overlooks a rocky coastline beaten by winds off the Southern Ocean. The area has rich farming land, covered with wildflowers in the spring. Aboriginal carvings are found on nearby Mt Cameron. The last Thylacine was shot near here in the 1930's. Obtain food and petrol for the trip to Savage River. Arthur River is a small holiday community set in a pleasant heath. Temma was the harbour for the horse drawn Balfour - Temma Tramway, used to transport copper ore from the inland Balfour mine in the 1910's. Return up the road for approx 3km and turn inland. Travel for approx 15km and turn southeast towards Balfour and Corinna. Corinna, on the Pieman river, is the aboriginal name for Thylacine. The population was 2,500 during the 1878 gold rush, but is now merely a garage and camping ground. The Pieman River is named after Thomas Kent, a Hobart pie maker. He was imprisoned on Sarah Island for selling spoiled pies, and escaped to hide here in 1823. The river is now dammed by the HEC. There is a daily four hour river cruise down the Pieman Gorge on the Huon pine MV Arcadia II. Fishing is good, but be sure you have bait. Turn back two kilometres and head northeast to Savage River. Savage River, population 1,200, is Tasmania's only iron ore mine, and is the beginning of the 98km ore slurry pipeline to Port Latta. |
![]() Scenery south of Arthur River on the rugged West Coast |
![]() Waratah, with the remains of the Ore Processing Plant |
| 3. From Waratah to Mole Creek |
Waratah, population 400, is the mining town built beside Mt Bischoff. Artifacts of the many narrow gauge railway lines centred on this town can still be seen, with the old railway bridge crossing the lake on the edge of town. The remains of the ore processing plant are to be found at the bottom of the waterfall. The house of James 'Philosopher' Smith, the prospector who discovered the Mt Bischoff ore field on 4th December 1871, is found in the middle of town. Mt Bischoff used to be the worlds richest tin mine in the 1880's. It was completely accessible by road until a few years ago, when I drove the old mine entrance roads to the large rust and green coloured lake at the top. Drive 8km to the Murchison highway and turn left. Travel north for approx 8km, then turn right at the crossroads to travel 10km on the dirt track to the railway line. Guilford Junction, (population several ghosts?) was the site of the township of Guilford. Remains of the old town, with its street layout and narrow gauge railway formations, can still be found. Return to the Murchison highway and turn left to head south for approx 25km. Turn left at the Cradle Valley turnoff. Travel east for approx 25km and turn south for approx 8km at the Cradle Valley turnoff. Cradle Mountain is a spectacular spire rising from the countryside. It surrounds Dove Lake, and is an excellent photographic and hiking opportunity. Take notice of the warning signs for hikers. Local accommodation and meals are expensive. Have a look at the Waldheim Chalet and the Trailside Museum. Return to the main road and turn right. Go through Daisey Dell and Moina then turn right before Gowrie Park. Head south 19km and turn right at the Walls of Jerusalem turnoff. Travel 18km until the dirt road. Proceed for another 10km on the dirt. The Walls of Jerusalem are a huge rock outcropping reminiscent of the walls of the city of Jerusalem; another worthwhile photo opportunity. Return north, and go 6km straight past the Gowrie Park turnoff, then turn off left to the King Solomons Cave. |
![]() A Weir beside the road going into Cradle Mountain |
![]() Cradle Mountain and Dove Lake |