The following are the guidelines I follow in setting up my bikes - I stress that it is only a general guideline, which I personally find to be successful. Therefore, if you choose to use these guidelines, you do it knowing full well that I do not accept any responsibility for any harm, mentally or physically, which may come to you or your bike in following this well-intentioned advice.

ENGINE SETUP

a) If using the following: (i) Avgas fuel (ii) Techno cylinders (iii) Techno pipes (iv) 94 Standard heads (7.6cc) (v) Standard carbies

b)(i) Squish 0.7mm - 0.75mm (ii) Timing 1.6mm BTDC (iii) Carby (AUSTRALIAN SETTING): MJ 320 (TOP); 330 (BOTTOM), PJ 70 Standard Needle in position 3, Nozzle R-6, Pilot 17.5, Air Screw 1 1/2 turn out, Slide 3.5 (iv) Engine Temperature 55 - 60 degress Celsius

c) TUNING

To determine carby changes, the rider must inform you what the acceleration feels like:

a) full off throttle to starting opening, indicates air screw and pilot jet (mainly air screw); b) 8000 - 10000: leave the needle in the No 3 position and only change the nozzle; c) 10000 - 12000: adjust the power jet; d) 12000 - 13500: adjust the main jet. It is best to determine the main jet by a plug chop and then looking at the piston colour. This should be checked at the end of each practice session. Go leaner until you see detonation on the piston. At this point top RPM 12000 - 13500 shoul be good. One MJ bigger should be about ideal.

After this the rider must indicate what the other three areas are like. Some examples:

1) Opening throttle - good (initial off turn); 8 - 10 not strong; 10 - 12 not strong; 12 - 13,5 good.

In this case you would only adjust the nozzle as this wiil affect both 8 - 10 and 10 - 12. MJ would be okay and Pilot/airscrew is good.

2) Opening throttle (sharp): 8 - 10 good; 10 - 12 not good; 12 - good.

Here you would lean off the airscrew around 1/4 of a turn and try. You would also change the PJ to richer or leaner as required.

3) Opening throttle - flat: 8 - 10 hesitant; 10 - 12 good; 12 - 13,5 good.

Here you would richen the airscrew 1/4 of a turn or more. For 8 - 10, you would change the nozzle jet. If you richen the nozzle, you would need to reduce the PJ size and if you lean off the nozzle, you may need to increase the PJ size. These settings will become easier as you play with the jetting. A Relative Air Density (RAD) gauge will be a big help once you have established a tuning base line.

Other important things to check the condition of on the bike:

* Plug caps - measure resistance

* Plugs

* Reed petals - replace regularly; check the Reed gaskets for sealing

* Exhaust mufflers - wool packing and cracking

* Power valve cable adjustment

* Function of the PJ solenoids

* Carby slide lift from zero - should lift equally off the bottom (don't worry about flat out)

* Stale fuel - don't re-use mixed fuel. Only mix enough fuel for the day

* Engine temperature - the higher the temperature over 60 C, the more the HP drops off.

These settings were sourced from Mal Pitman, formerly Race Engineer for the Yamaha Red Bull 500cc GP Team and now based once again in Vista, South Australia. I would like to thank him and his wife Sandy, sincerely for all their assistance and good service over the years.