RETURN TO APPIN -2000 What a welcome sight for the crumpled travellers alighting from squashed conditions in our trusty red station wagon. Overloaded with luggage and bodies she had made it through the maximum amount of traffic in Edinburgh caused by the Guinness Book of Records' attempt at over 10,000 marching pipers at the Edinburgh Festival. Never had we seen so many tartaned legs and caps. We were going in the opposite direction on our pilgrimage to Appin via Glasgow, Loch Lomond and Crianlarich. We were running late and I was extremely anxious as folk were coming via different airlines from different directions from all over the globe. To see the smiling faces by the fire at the Creagan Inn was such a thrill. Danny and Trish were there, then moved on to trace their own history - Lady Stewart and Mairi Smith met us with stand-by mackintoshes. We chatted, ate and sampled beverages in jolly company, ready for our adventure. Oban for stocking up was the next destination, then it was back to our various abodes and rest. Day 2 saw us ready to take on the challenge issued by Mairi Smith. Only five out of the sixteen Americans who had started out on the trek up Cladh Churiollan (spelling according to "Ecclesiastical Monuments" no 237, p 122) on Beinn Churalain at Creagan, only a few weeks beforehand, had made it up the steep climb. With that in mind we battled the bracken and midgies up to St Cyril's Well and the ancient burial ground. The scenery from 150m altitude is magnificent across Loch Creran and west toward Lismore and Mull. We crossed rocks and streams, saw rare butterflies, colourful wildflowers including St Johns Wort and sustained many midgies bites, all in a spirit of stepping in the footsteps of our forebears. Mairi had taken shaving cream and a squeegee and we were able to read clearly the head-stones of McColls including Duncan MacColl who died in 1772, McKenzies, Mclntyres and Angus Mclnnes, piper to James Stewart of Fasnacloich. Mairi blessed Kirsty with water from the hidden well after she noticed the stones which camouflage this circular, ground out font, so well hidden from people who were not of the same faith. We posed there in replication of the return visit of the McColls in 1933. We slid and trekked down, almost exhausted and decided against a mid-night picnic in favour of a warm bath or shower and rest. Day 3 - Oban - Various points of interest in this Victorian town including the whiskey distillery, wharf area (favoured by Ken Reece), tourist information office and shops were utilised by group members. We were able to negotiate a bulk discount for our island trip thanks to the charms of Messers Douglas McCole and Ken Reece and a friendly highland lass. The measuring for the kilt hire provided lots of material for good humour. Kevin Livingstone and Doug selected the Black Stewart, Gary McCole the Hunting Stewart and Geoff Butler the Murray from his mother's side. Ken Reece had his own McKenzie Tartan, so all were to be attired in Jacobite colours. Day 4 - An overcast start as our Caledonian MacBrayne ferry "Isle of Mull" started out across the Lynn of Lorne to Craignure. Our super-skilled bus driver across Mull, Lachie McVey from Glasgow, kept us entertained with comic tales, histories and explanations of the road rules particular to the island. He was one of the memorable, warm, tenacious characters that make travellers return. The remoteness and beauty of Mull lulled us into a false sense of security which was quickly awoken by the excitement of the sea voyage out of the Sound of lona into the Irish Sea. We seemed to be side on to the waves in an open, small craft, but top to toe yellow waterproofs were offered. Jeanette and Peter McColl sensibly donned their gear and just as well as Peter ended prone on the floor of the boat in front of Jeanette, The lady sitting next to Jeanette thought that he was proposing and a great laugh was had by all, even the gull tracking us above. The ferrymen are expert in these waters and docked us carefully. Staffa is an amazing formation of black vertical columns reminiscent or the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland for those who have been there. but the top layer reminds me of the froth and bubble which used to appear on lime spiders when I was a teenager. The bravest members of the group ventured to Fingals Cave and just had time for a view from the top of the island. Feeling quite exhilarated, we set off for Iona, although Peter wanted to stay longer. This gentle island which was the best known base for Christianity to spread from the work of St. Columba was sunny and extraordinarily peaceful. Restoration work continues on the abbey which is built from the local pink granite. We prayed, shopped in the craft and book shops, ate, delved into local and family history at the Heritage Centre and sat in the sun enjoying the beauty of our surroundings. Dolphins played by a yacht as we waited for the last ferry. Lachie had more local tales on the return journey and we returned late in the evening. The 9th of August was our wet day. Unfortunately we missed the best of the colours on our journey south to Kilmartin Lochilphead and Inveray on Loch Fyne. The heritage centre at Kilmartin is well worth the visit with videos and displays of early Celtic effects and archival material showing the standing stone circles, Viking raids and consequent shifts to cultivation and an agrarian econornv over the centuries. An instrument which looks and sounds very much like a didgeridoo was featured. The .Archives Office was not prepared for our visit and the Campbell Castle closed early. We did have a very good look at the Inverary jail where a very realistic court-room display with moving dummies and tapes of actual cases tricked many of us. Some people heated up the plastic cards as there are some well stocked shops with all sorts of Scottish produce. Thursday 10th August was a fine, sunny day which gave a beautiful ferry trip to Lismore from Oban. We could not use the small boat from Port Appin as we needed the vehicles to get around the island. Younger, fitter people than some of us were cycling about, but we were more comfortable and could still w4k the next day. We invaded the Lismore Heritage Centre which has an amazing amount of materials and information about Lismore and our finishes. Poor Paddy McNichol, the young historian on duty was overwhelmed by this band of fervent Aussies and he quickly phoned about the island for re-enforcements. Kevin's pen could not keep up with his brain, Myra and Ken found photographs of Keith relatives and McColls found much of interest also. Kevin and I vowed to return later in the day. We bolstered the funds for the ladies raising funds for the Lismore Hall by buying our sandwiches, teas, coffees and cakes for lunch. By this stage Liza and Doug McCole were building up a sound knowledge of the delights of Scottish shortbreads. Knocking on the front door of Bachuill, the seat of the Livingstone clan, I had a sinking feeling that this was the wrong day. Sure enough, a minute later, a voice from the vegetable garden over the rock wall said "Hello there." Valerie Livingstone was out picking peas. There had been a problem in communication, or my hearing, and we were there two days earlier than she had been expecting us. With grace and good humour the Baron, Alastair, and Valerie Livingstone made us welcome in their home. They have a large lounge or entertaining area and we filled it. Valerie talked to us about the history of Lismore, St Moluag and the title and barony of Bachuill. We were also treated to a wee dram or a sherry and thoroughly enjoyed their hospitality. Alastair still has discomfort from his two accidents and walking quickly is not his favourite pastime. Kevin Livingston was able to give his clan chief a copy of the history of the Livingstones in Australia and had private discussions with him. Kevin moved a vote of thanks and a bottle of "the Famous Grouse~' was presented to our genial hosts. I thanked Alastair for the concept which led to the formation of the group and our return visit. We had discussed the idea back in 1996 at the commemorations for the Battle of Culloden. There was a feeling of warmth and welcome in their home and most of us were feeling that we were kith and kin. Except for Kevin and myself, the group led by Mairi Smith explored the ruins of Castle Coeffin, an ancient hunting lodge on the western side of Lismore. The clearances in the Appin area were apparently another reason for emigration among our forebears, however the inducements offered by the British government for people to emigrate were considerable, from written material sighted there. As we had been setting a fair pace with full day trips, it was decided that Friday 11th should be a lay day to allow members to catch up on shopping, banking, washing and rest. Most of us drifted into Oban after a later than usual start. There was considerable driving between the places we were staying for picking up and dropping off and Doug, Liza and Geoff were enjoying a less demanding day. We spent the evening together at the Creagan Inn with a few drinks and some food. The chicken was off the menu, four minutes after the manager started to take orders. Those pint shandies are stronger at the bottom of the glass I think the is why I could not get through them! At the Port Appin Hall that evening, John Todd spoke to us about his research into the Picts or Celts, evidence suggests that they were living through central Europe before drifting to Scotland. Linguistic patterns give evidence of Celts in Iceland and the Pyrenees also. Gary moved a vote of thanks. The Appin Historical Society made us welcome at the hall, Sylivia and Ron Laing invited us to their home to view the fine collection of old photographs which include many McColls and much history of Appin. An informative evening indeed. Saturday, August 12th dawned grey and damp. Scotland also has daylight saving. We spent most of the day at the Appin Show which was held on Stalker crofts adjacent to the castle. We watched highland dancing competitions for girls and boys from pre- school to young adult age ranges accompanied by patient pipers. We saw fascinating steam engines, an early washing machine, farm equipment and vehicles. One steam engine even held a small cupboard for the owner's whiskey. Water was added from an agricultural pipe on site!! Dog trials, sheep and cattle judging, shinty games, vegetables, plants, ice-cream, home baking, sheaf tossing and a beer tent added to four-wheel motor bikes for an entertaining time. The tent for the Appin Historical Society saw the addition of a full sized Australian flag given to us by Dick Adams MHR and some of our historical materials. Lady Stewart had asked Michael Starforth, the historian for the Stewarts of Appin to meet us at the Show as he was off to Ireland the next day and could not join us at her home. Some of us were privileged to meet this intelligent gentleman who seemed to have a kind disposition and a disciplined and analytical brain. Unfortunately, he passed away in Belfast the following Friday. We were indeed fortunate to meet this man who has worked so diligently for years on the clan history. The weather was showery but there was plenty of shelter. Prue, Jeanette and Myra all ma~ comment that the show was a good way of being exposed to the culture of the area Certainly one could pick up the kindness of people toward each other and the pleasure they took in seeing each other as many folk who grew up in the area and have moved away come back for the Show weekend. This theme was continued at the dance that evening. The men looked very handsome in their highland dress having worked out how to tie up the shoe-laces and what to wear underneath their kilts. They certainly move gracefully - the kilts that is!! Strip the Willow, Dashing White Sergeant and the Canadian Barn Dance were some of the different dances enjoyed by all who "had a go" and we all participated in the fun and loudness of a great night. The Appin folk were happily chatting to their school pa's and doing a spot of dancing. "The Bonny Banks of Loch Lomond" will never be the same again. Some members philosophised until after 3:00am and then turned up at the village church later on that Sunday morning. Rev. Douglas Robertson whom Gary, Geoff and I had met on previous occasions officiated. Clan Chief Andrew Stewart joined us for a short commemorative service at the Appin Cemetery during the afternoon. He spoke about our relationship with the area and what our families had done for the Stewarts of Appin clan and in particular the regiment. Baden McColl, Myra McKenzie and Kevin Livingston delivered well chosen words in speeches about the forebears of each family and the contributions made in the past, often when they had no choice. A wreath was laid at the Culloden stone which was returned to Appin in 1906 by John McColl. The service was a sombre reminder of lives given for causes of which we have limited understanding, and a stark lesson in the struggle of life and death. Rev. Robertson gave a small sermon centred around the search for meaning in life and suggested that all our answers are to be found in God. We also said goodbye to Jeanette and Peter McColl who were off to Spain. Our visit to Salachail, home of Lady Stewart of Appin, our patron, was a wonderful highlight of the trip. She had arranged for the McColl march to be piped on our arrival - what a thrill. The white house is set in grassy acres flanked by forests and looks out on a small loch and majestic hills and mountains form a semi-circular backdrop. The bagpipes seemed to echo from the walls of the house. The sun was low and the men in their formal attire all combined to make an extra- ordinary picture for us Aussies, not accustomed to such traditions and used to a different drier, greyer form of beauty. Lady Stewart made us feel very welcome and we were offered tasty food and drinks. We presented her with a "one of' silver bookmark with a "2OO~ mark and engraved with our name. Clan Chief, Andrew Stewart proved a knight in shining armour by helping us with a petrol shortage - much appreciated Andrew. The headless huntsman or the black dog might have taken us had we run out of fuel. Monday, 14th August saw us crammed into our vehicles again on the road via Loch Ness and Inverness to Culloden. We stopped en4oute to pick up a bunch of flowers to lay at the stone commemorating where the Stewarts of Appin men fell in 1746. The moor is still bleak and the undergrowth is growing taller so that the beginnings of a young forest are apparent among the boggy patches off the walking tracks around the battle ground. It was a sombre day. We inspected the marker board on Lady Stewart's behalf. It still reads Stewart of Appin and McLaren which is not the name of the regiment. Douglas and I met with Mr. Hector McKenzie, Historian for Culloden for the National Trust for Scotland. We had to wait a few hours and found him to be tall in stature and condescending in manner. We made our point regarding the board and received terseness in reply. He re-iterated that the board was named from the forestry names assumed when the National Trust took over the area, we pointed out the inconsistencies in the naming patterns of all the boards. Some have family names and some have regimental titles. I accused him of being historically lazy but he stated again that the only way that the plans will change would be for the Stewart Society to donate over one thousand pounds to have a new board made. We felt that we had represented members feelings but not won the war. The emotional weariness of the visit to Culloden was offset beautifully by Ken Reece's suggestion of a night at "McTavishes" in Oban. There we were treated to bulk community singing, bagpipes, dancers and Scots music to which we sang, cheered loudly and swept the air with our serviettes. The food was traditional and served by a lady who would do anything for Gordon McColl. Some people were a little quiet on Tuesday, 15th August when we headed north up to Ballachulish. The Episcopal Church of St Johns, has many graves belonging to members of our extended families and after visiting the site of the Appin Murder in Lettermore Wood we began gathering information. Baden was able to go through some original documentation thanks to Mr. Walker, the care-taker who showed us inside the church which is in need of repair. After viewing the memorial to John of the Glen except for Baden, we travelled on to Glencoe Village where Ross McDonald (nee Rankin) guided us on a tour of the area. We began with the massacre site and memorial, village shops and houses and up to Strathcona and the picturesque Loch Glencoe. The story of a Canadian Indian princess being miserable in a Scottish re- creation of a Canadian forest seemed very real as mist hung about the hills: stunning beauty, but somehow unnatural. After lunch at a tea-room which had the highest cakes and the thickest icing I have ever seen, we travelled back to Appin to prepare for our evening visit to Castle Stalker. The men again donned their kilts and we were ferried across to the castle as piper Doug McColl played beside the castle. Ross Allward showed visitors about the castle while Corrine Allward, Mairi and I prepared the fine "cloutie dumpling" cooked by Margaret Black (Mairi's Mother) which was a birthday treat for Douglas. Mairi placed fresh heather underneath and silver goblets were placed around the dumpling. When the group touring the fine and sturdy structure so lovingly and comfortably restored by the Allwards, came down the stairs we broke into Happy Birthday! Beaming faces and speeches followed. We very much appreciate the efforts of Mairi Smith and the Allwards in making a great evening. Douglas McColl. piper from Duror played the bagpipes beautifully with a range of music that warmed the soul. As the sun was setting we were ferried back to Appin. Mairi Smith had built a bhirlinn as part of the millennium celebrations with the school children. It was fired as the sunset making a memorable scene with Castle Stalker in the background. The Jacobite steam train to Mallaig provided sunshine on the way back and more spectacular scenery. We passed Glenflrnnan where Bonnie Prince Charlie had landed and returned to Fort William. Prue was able to visit the grave of her forbear John McColl, buried at Corpach. A fine birthday dinner was enjoyed for Douglas at the Loch Leven Hotel, Ballachulish, followed by snooker Thursday, 17th August saw us divide into two groups. Baden, Myra, Kevin and I went down to Lochilphead to try again at research while other members went into Oban and visited a castle. Some good results from Lochilphead, especially for Kevin Livingston who found an older, bigger double who is a distant relative, learned in the history of Lismore. He was thrilled to meet Kevin and felt we are all family. That was the pervading feeling for most of us on the visit. The children at the Appin School were open, friendly children who asked lots of questions about Australia, especially about our snakes, insects and spiders. However fourwheel motor bikes, mobile phones and soap operas also featured also featured. Kevin presented the school with Australian books on behalf of the group and gave two personal gifts. Acting principal Christine Ross gave permission for us to use the logo from the school for a badge. Some marvellous imaginations and characters at the school made us feel more comfortable about intruding than we had. Our last day was spent packing up and a traditional dinner, barbecue and ceilidh at Mairi Smith's home in Oban saw a sad end to our visit. Small speeches added to our wonderful" memories. The next day we parted and returned to our own realities, enriched by our experience. Heather Butler.