General care
TRAINING
For the first week of training, clip a light lead to the puppies collar and leave it to trail on the ground for short periods. Follow this with some more serious training; hold the lead and encourage the pup to walk with you, on your left. Never use the lead as a means to pull the puppy along, and not to smack it. Praise him whenever it walks freely forward. The lead will become an object of pleasure for the dog, never an instrument of punishment.
Many vets also have puppy preschool sessions for puppies up to 16 weeks. The next step is dog obedience clubs, where you will learn how to train your dog. These cater for all standards from the basics to competitive obedience work, and are also a good chance for your dog to socialize as well. Serious training should begin when puppy is 6 – 8 months.
Play is an important aspect in teaching doggie manners and it is vital that your dog really loves and respects you, so that you become its pack leader
A firm NO! and he knows he has sinned
Training should be by reward for good work
ARRIVE HOME
When your puppy arrives home, keep him/her safe by protecting him/her from harm. Place paper on the floor until he is house trained. Take him outside at regular intervals for toilet breaks, (first thing in the morning, after a sleep, after a meal and last thing at night). Never leave the puppy inside alone for a long time unless the floor is well covered with newspaper. Do not punish a puppy when it makes a mistake, merely show that such behaviour is not pleasing. Warm praise should be given when the puppy does well…….
Puppies like to play for about 30 minutes, then have a long period of sleep. If young children are around, teach them how to handle him carefully and how long to play before he gets tired.
Toys should not be too small or he can swallow them, as he will if they have a felt or fur covering. A rubber ball, Kongs or chew ropes are the best. Puppies should not be pulled around on a lead or treated like a toy.
Never leave your dog in a car in summer, they will dehydrate easily. Cars heat up very quickly and dogs will die of heat stress quite rapidly. Heat stress can occur on days over 30’. Only short walks or training in the heat and plenty of fresh water to drink.
SUMMER HEALTH
With long hours of sunshine providing many opportunities for outdoor activities and holidays, summer is a great time to enjoy even more with your pet.
Unfortunately, the welcome change in weather and outdoor activities can also bring a number of potential threats to your pets well being. By following some simple tips, you can easily safeguard your pet from danger.
Providing protection from the heat and sun:
Soaring temperatures are no more comfortable for our furry friends than they are for us. If your pet spends a lot of time outside during the day be sure to provide a cool, shady spot for it to escape the hot summer sun. If your pet is to be left indoors for any length of time, it is essential that the area be well ventilated.
Provide plenty of cool, clean water for your pet to drink. It is a good idea to provide two drinking bowls in case one runs out or gets knocked over. Like people, pets can get sunburn, to prevent this and the risk of skin cancer, apply a high SPF sunscreen to your pets ears, nose and areas of exposed skin before it goes outside.
Leaving your pet in a parked car can result in heatstroke, which can kill. The temperature in a parked car can reach extreme levels within minutes on a warm day, even if the windows are partially open. Avoid this possible danger by leaving your pet at home or take it out of the car with you.
Adjust your pets exercise routine:
While it is important to exercise your pet all year round, you can reduce the risk of heat stress by limiting exercise to the cooler hours of the early mornings or evening. It’s also more comfortable for you as well. Avoid strenuous exercise with your pet on extremely hot days. Also be aware that concrete and footpaths in direct sunlight may burn your dogs paws.
By the pool or beach:
A lot of dogs love to splash in the pool where swimming is permitted. Even the strongest paddlers can drown if they are unable to get out of a swimming pool or run into trouble in the surf. Keep a close watch on your dog when around the pool, at the beach, or near lakes, creeks and rivers. Puppies and older dogs need special attention in the water.
EVERYTHING YOU WANTED TO KNOW BUT FORGOT TO ASK
Ok, maybe not quite everything, but here are a number of our best random tips for puppy owners. They’re all things learnt from experience. And experience comes from making mistakes!
1. Make a puppy tote bag and take it with you whenever the pup goes along;
Ø Soft wet rag in a ziplock baggie
Ø Empty ziplock baggie to contain a “mess”
Ø Leash/collar or harness
Ø Treats/toys/water
Ø Copy of vaccination record
2. Support system: Start a list of the names and numbers of experienced dog people you can call for advice, referrals or just to brag. Start this list using your breeder, veterinarian, trainer, feed store and then collect cards from “dog people” you meet during outings with your pup.
3. Is this the vet for me: for each visit, prepare one or two questions for your veterinarian. After two or three appointments, ask for a copy of your dog’s records. Then read them. If they seem complex, or if your pup has been ill, ask a knowledgeable dog person to review them with you. Good records should include the pups weight, appearance and vital signs etc. plus any questions or concerns you have raised. A good medical history is worth its weight in gold as a future diagnostic tool.
4. Chew treats: puppies are chewing machines. That’s how they explore their world. Much like human infants, everything goes in their mouths. Especially at teething time, provide your pup with a variety of things to chew. Some favourites are:
Ø Ice cubes
Ø Large carrots
Ø Kong toy with natural peanut paste rubbed inside
5. Pup meets cat: separate the new pup from your house cat until the pup is tired. Make the initial, supervised introduction or get aquatinted visit when the pup’s energy is depleted.
6. Be mentally present: when the pup is out of sight somewhere in the house or yard it is up to no good, probably chewing or digging up something you cherish.
7. Internet advise: the internet is a great place to meet other pet owners, do research on your breed and pick up health and training tips. However do not believe everything you read on the internet, in books or in dog magazines. Use common sense and when in doubt, consult your vet or members of your support group.
1. Puppy poops: as often as possible, especially if your pup is not totally house trained clean up puppy poo while it is fresh. This gives you the opportunity to check for parasites or possible foreign materials. If you notice these, blood, mucus or extremely foul odour, its time for a trip to the vet for a check.
2. Not in front of puppy: be careful what you do around your pup. Digging weeds from the flowerbeds may be a job for you, but the pup may find it’s a great way to learn about digging holes.
3. Poke privileges: all the family members must be able to handle any part of the pup. Including feet, teeth, tail and genitals. From the first day your pup becomes part of the household, make certain to practice gently handling all body parts.
4. What’s normal? To determine normal temperature and pulse for your pup, ask the vet to show you how to take pups temperature and where to find the pulse points.
5. Kodak moments: take a photo of your pup the day you bring it home and weekly after that. A great pictorial growth chart.
6. Dear diary: if the pup shows odd behaviours or symptoms, begin a diary. List the day, time, symptom, what happened a few days before etc. From skipping meals to scratching, your diary can provide important information or clues to your vet. This is good for training issues as well.
7. One set of rules for everyone; make sure all members of the household agree on the rules for the new pup. From the minute it arrives, everyone should be using the same command, enforcing the same boundaries and rewarding positive behaviour.
8. What’s the plan: what do you want to do, long term with your new dog? Are you going to show, tracking, obedience, agility or just a pet? Many of these activities require basic work now while the pup is young. Make a game plan and training schedule. Start a notebook to chart your success.
9. Look isn’t that sweet: some things you might find cute in a pup could be problems in a grown dog. A 10 wk old pup-playing tug with your shoes is cute, but as a grown dog chewing your best shoes isn’t, it’s destructive.
10. You ought to be in pictures: take lots of videos of your pup when it is young. You will appreciate this later and as a bonus, reviewing the video will allow you to assess not only the pup but also your behaviour while training and playing etc.
11. Take it easy: pups are balls of energy. Yet they need lots of rest. Don’t set your expectations too high. Let your pup have plenty of down time. If you have children, make sure they understand the pup must have time and space to rest and be left alone.
12. Back off, kid: Kids and pups can be the greatest of pals in the world, or the dog can learn to hate children. Supervise your children when they play with the pup. Make certain they never tease or torment. When pup has had enough play give it space and a quite place to nap.
13. Rubber ducky: make bath time lots of fun. Get pup used to getting wet and having a bath early on. Speak to him in happy tones, rather than soothing ones. This is fun, no reason to be afraid. You might end up with a dog that tries to jump in the bath or shower with you.
14. No begging: don’t allow pup to get away with begging. If you don’t reward the pup for this behaviour now, you won’t have to deal with it when company is present.
15. Go for a walk: soon these words will become magic. Take your pup for short walks. Exploring the world together is a terrific way to expose your pup to new experiences. But remember they tire out easy so don’t overdo it.
16. Stress is contagious: puppies are sensitive to your emotions. If you have a bad day, do not introduce new commands or objects. For instance, if you have an argument with your boss and then start to introduce the pup to loud noises, the pup may interpret the stress emanating from you to mean that loud = scary. Wait until you are in neutral and can be patient and encouraging.
17. Don’t push it: puppies learn better when you don’t try to teach too much at one time. Make the sessions short and always end on a good note. Make sure the training is fun for the pup and it will learn faster and be more eager to please. If the pup is having difficulty with one exercise, end on a good note and try again another day.
18. Keep them occupied: a bored dog can be a destructive dog. Give your pup something to keep it occupied. Toys are important to stimulate a puppies brain activity. Choose items that won’t confuse the pup. Chew toys that look like shoes are not a good idea.
19. The baby’s crying: when you bring your new pup home, try not to pamper it too much specially the first night. Don’t run in and offer comfort or tell the pup to be quite every time it whimpers or whines. If you do, your pup will learn that crying brings attention.
20. Gotta go: don’t forget that pups have to go to the toilet more often than adult dogs. Make frequent trips outside. Also, when going outdoors go to one area of your yard and wait for the pup to do its business before playing in the other spots. This will aid in housebreaking and make clean up easier.
21. Love lasts: your pup will be a full-grown dog before you know it. A dog is a long-term commitment. Some breeds live to 15 years or longer. That adorable puppy still needs love and care when it is full-grown. If you care for your dog, he will return the love many times over.
Bringing your pup home is a wonderful, exciting time. It’s the beginning of a life long friendship. Plan to bring your pup home at a time when the household is calm and not a lot of activities are on. Never be afraid to ask for help. Should your pup become aggressive towards people or other animals, or exhibit any traits that make you feel uncomfortable, immediately seek help from a professional. Be responsible. Make certain your pup knows the rules for being in public. Good luck……….
Demodectic Mange
Demodicosis is
a skin disorder of dogs associated with higher than normal populations of
demodectic mites. It is caused by Demodex canis, a host specific mite and a
normal inhabitant of canine hair follicles. The mite is not spread from dog to
dog but from the lactating bitch to sucking pups by direct contact during the
first few days of a pups life. The mite will cause skin disease in some dogs but
not
in others. The reason for this is unknown.
Possible causes include: (a) immunosuppression, i.e. unable to fight infection
that may be hereditary, (b) changes in hormone levels as demodicosis frequently
occurs around 6 - 9 months of age, a time when puppies are becoming sexually
mature. Also we can see the disease after the first season
of a bitch.
Localised
demodicosis
This form is mild with areas of non-itchy hair loss especially around the face
and forelimbs 90% of these cases get better without treatment. This is common in
young dogs.
Generalised demodicosis
Juvenile Onset
In about 10% of cases the condition becomes generalised affecting most or the
whole of the body. These cases develop secondary bacterial infections which will
cause the dog to scratch. The mite on its own doesn't cause itching. Dogs are
frequently depressed and off their food. Between 30-50% of dogs with generalised
demodicosis under a year of age recover spontaneously.
Adult Onset
This is a rare form of the disease that occurs in older dogs over 4 years of age
with no prior history of demodicosis. Underlying causes include internal
disease, for example cancer or dogs receiving cortico
steroid, used in allergic skin disease but they do depress the immune system
allowing the mite to proliferate and therefore cause skin disease.
Treatment
First of all we don't want to use steroids as they depress the immune system
making things worse, as I have already pointed out. Secondly, we should try to
identify and, if possible, correct any underlying causes, such as steroid
treatment or cancer. Because of the hereditary nature of the disease, dogs
with generalised demodicosis should be castrated or spayed. Some veterinary
surgeons argue that even dogs with self curing localised demodicosis should not
be bred from, but I strongly disagree for two reasons. First, these dogs will
get better on their own and secondly, if we as Staffordshire Bull Terrier
breeders were to do so, our gene pool would be so small that the breed would
soon become extinct
as demodicosis is so common within our breed. I have a problem within my
breeding but I have never had a case of generalised demodicosis!! I try to use
stud dogs that have little or no history of
demodicosis to decrease the incidence of demodicosis within my breeding.
Localised demodicosis is not treated in most cases as 90 % get better on their
own. In generalised demodicosis a solution called Amitraz (Aludex) diluted in 1
part amitraz to 100 parts water is applied to the dog's body every 7 days until
skin scrapings have shown no mites. Prior to its use benzoyl peroxide
(Paxcutol) helps to remove scale, crust and pus. Ideally dogs should also be
clipped allowing better skin contact. Oral antibiotics are given to treat the
secondary bacterial infection. Treatment can last for
months especially when the feet are affected. Ivermectin is not licensed for use
in dogs only on farm animals and some small mammals and can be fatal especially
in Collies, Shelties and their crosses. However, if amitraz doesn't work then we
will consider using ivermectin.
Diagnosis
History, i.e. age, breed and symptoms non itchy hair loss are helpful, but for a
definite diagnosis deep skin scrapings or even multiple skin biopsies are
necessary so that the mites can be seen under a
microscope. In adult onset the demodicosis one always looks for an underlying
condition.
To sum up:
Demodicosis
is a common skin disease in Staffordshire Bull Terriers. We should not breed
from dogs where all or most of the body is affected. If we do see localised
demodicosis in our litters, as
I have seen in mine, then we should try to use stud dogs that have no history of
the disease or a very limited history. It is my professional opinion that if we
stop breeding from dogs with mild self-curing
localised demodicosis then the gene pool within our breed would be so small that
we would loose our best breeding lines, if not the breed as a whole. This is
because the mite is a normal skin inhabitant of the vast majority of dogs.