Heres a few pics sent by customers of how they have set up their bikes,

Heres a few pics sent by customers of how they have set up their bikes, some great ideas for battery placement and other ideas! bon apetite

Scott is using gl-2 motor in 26" mountain bike, he is using Lithium Iron Phosphate battery from Headway company comprising making a 48volt 12ahr battery pack.

Scott writes:
Inside the black box is a 12ah 48V lifepo4.I've done a range test and can do about 50km cruising at around 40km per hour.I'm pedaling fairly hard, but not so hard that I can't keep it up. Lucky I ended up getting a 7 speed cluster with an 11 tooth top gear, I'm actually running out of gears as it is.I then get another 4km or so at about 35km per hour before I hit my low voltage cut-out on the controller.So, I'm ultimately very happy and have only driven to work twice in the past 3 weeks.
I must admit I'm pedaling pretty hard to get that 54km range. My pulse is up at about 150 for most of my daily trip. Stopping at lights gives me an excuse for a break. I'm loving it - getting a bit of exercise and not using any petrol. Good for many reasons. The batteries are Headway cells - 96 x 2000mah lifepo4 batteries.So far seem OK. At the end of my daily commute (40km total) I start to see the pack drop down to 46V or so under load once or twice, and considering I have then done another 14km at around 40km/hour (dropping back to 35 near the end) I think I'm treating my battery quite kindly.Good for battery longevity.No worries about the delays - we got there in the end. Just when petrol prices started getting really ridiculous, too.

I had my son make the battery box, he is in the refrigeration game and made it from stainless steel, it lifts off the carrier making it easy to put on charge, it is fitted with a battery isolater switch & 20A overload.

The one outlet plug works for bike or charger. I fitted a torque arm to both sides, I just use a length of aluminium strap wrapped around the frame & bolted to the arm, you can see in the attached pics.

The motor works extremely well & pushes along at about 30kmh, on the level, on hills I do have to pedal but it is fine. With the 18AH batteries the voltage after charging is about 53.5V & drops down to about 50V after about 1 HR of travel.

Graham also installed a Voltmeter ( a kit from dick smith electronics I'm not sure if it also does amps though)
I would normall recommend that 12v 12ahr battery size is enough weight for an electric bike, but graham says he got used to the heavy weight of 18ahr
on the rear, the weight would also be slowing down the motor somewhat which you can see reflected in the top speed of 30km/hr, which would say with lithium
batteries be up around 38-40km/hr maybe a bit higher.

Glen is using the gl-1 motor. He's set up the bike with two lots of 36v Dewault battery packs, which are used in some dewault power tools.
Dewault battery packs use A123 brand iron phosphate lithium batteries. Glen has the two dewault packs in series giving approx. 80volts when fully charged. To my surprise he is using the standard gl-1 controller ( normally runs on 36volt or 48volt) and running it on 80volts.

Below how Glen has set up the two dewault lithium 36v battery packs. Picture on right shows his mounting of the 48v regen controller which he's running on 80volts.

16th of July, 2007: Ray of Laurieton, NSW: Ray has been testing his latest creation using a midsized geared motor ( 350watt) using a chain drive system similar to Elation and Epac systems. Ray has spent alot of time on this one and is getting some really good results.
His latest addition to the system is the chain tensioner roller. 45km/hr top speed.

16th of July, 2007: Wayne Dawson of IDM Company in South Africa ( contact: idm_za@mweb.co.za)

Wayne has used the P2b motor in a very nicely modified standard bike frame as a demostration model for the South African police force, with the out of control crime rates the police will be trialling ( no pun intended) some ebikes supplied by waynes company to assess the suitability for 'on the beat' police work. He is also trialing some P3 motors for this purpose also. A really professional finish Wayne has achieved with the hub motors and adapted standard bike frames.

Wayne also came up with this monster motor design ( motor not supplied by me but is a united 1000watt motor), he has appropriately named the bike the Fugly bike.
Apparently it is somewhat overpowered........mmmmm really???

If anyone in south africa is interested in any hub motor products please contact Wayne on the email above he will be able to supply ebike kits/bikes etc.

8th of June, 2007: Nicky of ............... using a P2a 24v hub motor in a mongoose mountain bike. I particularly like Nickys' battery arrangement. There is no case required for the batteries, some waterproof tape on top of the batteries keeps water out of the battery terminals, the batteries sit on a sheet of aluminium ( I think ), but its the straps that I think are a really nice way of keeping the batteries in place and very rigid, also a very neat finish. Also controller is placed to get some windflow on cooling fins to keep cool if under load for a long period ( in summer on very hot days I've had one report ( from Nick in sydney) of a controller cutting out due to the high air temperature, the controller on Nicks bike wasn't out in the open in the airflow).

"I have set up the p2a motor on my mongoose mountain bike. It has proved to be reliable and performs quite well. The arrangement I have ended up with is 2 lots of 12ah jump starter batteries using a 24V 30amp controller. I tried 3 lots of 12ah and a 36V controller at first but I found that the extra weight was not worth the small gain in performance. I would recommend the kit to someone who wants a low cost electric bike. The mongoose with p2a setup is a lot of fun to ride, it handles well on road or dirt. Range is quite good, about 25-30k with moderate pedalling. "

Nicky also has an Aprilia Enjoy which he has made some modifications to:

He wrote:
"my aprilia enjoy which is running 3 lots of 17ah gel cells, 36V 500W controller, has a range of 25-30km, top speed is 60km/hr on the flats and weight is 45kg. This bike feels more like a motorcycle than a bicycle and is much less fun to ride than the mongoose"

19th of May 2007: Robert of Canberra starting using a Tongxin motor 9 months ago in his Giant brand bike. His 7ahr sla agm batteries have pretty much given up enough range, they are located in the front beer cooler box.

Robert sent the following information on the battery/bike performance as follows:

"Last week I retired my first set of 3 x 7AH SLA batteries as they had fallen to about 50% of their
original capacity and I was having to actually push the bike up the last
hill home. I have recharged them 146 times and they have travelled 146 x
12 = 1728km. I change each battery seperately at home using 14.7V
regulators and charge them in series at work using a 43V regulator. The
latter isn't a very good system as one battery always ends up getting
charged to about 15V - strangely it's rarely the same battery, so I think
that slight differences in the home charger is causing much of the
problem.
The red bag at the front is a cooler bag for a 6 pack which fits 3 SLA's very snuggly.
I've also got wiring in place to take a second pack in a back pannier but I've never had
any trouble with the weight up front - if anything it's too stable.
Most people who see the motor think it's a generator and wonder why I
carry beer to work every day."

May 2007: Ray of Laurieton NSW Australia: Rays got two bikes up and running and a third under construction ( using a chain drive set up ).
Bike on the left is using gl-1 motor with sla agm batteries, bike on right is older project using tongxin from hub motor.

Below how Ray set up the torque arm on left with gl-1 motor, and on the right the bike racks which carry batteries in side bags.

May 2007: an older pic I should have put up a long time ago of Maurice Wells of Sydney bike using tongxin and lithium battery 24v 10ahr, very impressive the tongxin motor with a lithium especially on hills.

May 2007: Mathew Lyons of Melbourne Australia: Mathew has a great innovative bent, he's done alot of work with fisher paykel washing machine motors as wind generators and has a very good understanding of them. I had always wanted to try one with an ebike controller but never got around to it, I supplied mathew with some controllers to try and first one worked.........bingo. He had already rewired into parallel the motor and had changed the ceramic magnets to neodymium. The ceramic magnets were not successful with the controller only the neos worked well. I hope to put up a large section on the website on how to convert the motors for use on ebikes in the near future based on Mathews experiments. Once the motor was running he quickly put into a bike for testing. I think awesome would describe the results, very good torque and top speed, damn motor was bending the frame out of shape he told me!

Mathews Solar car using Fisher and Paykel washing machine motor. Fisher and Paykel washing machine motor is running off crystalyte 36v/48v 20amp controller, he's currently trying to get the regen braking controller to work with the fp motor.

Some pics of Mathews finished frame, he tells me he has to dissassemble now and go over some welding but its almost ready to rocknroll, he says the steering/suspension works very well ( 24th June 07 ). Note dates on pics incorrect camera not set correctly. Pretty amazing effort to make this largely from old bike parts!

Mathew has also installed a P3 motor in a bike I think for his father to use. A very nice keyswitch and battery box set up on this one, quite a nice bike too.I have had some problems with the 3 speed clusters on the P3 motors, the thread was incorrectly matched between the cluster and motor, but should have that resolved soon, apologies to a couple of people waiting for the new clusters.

May 2007: David C from Newcastle, Australia setup a GL-1 motor kit in a mountain bike. I suggested to him to be very careful with the lithiums as they are experimental and who knows what might happen. He took my advice and turned up with a Nato armaments box!! I think a much better use of Nato funding is to use on ebikes rather than for weapons . {off topic: came up with idea to end wars: ban all weapons completely, put the leaders of the waring countries in a boxing ring and let them thump each other senseless, televised live of course. Can you imagine Bush, Howard and Blaire in a ring with Saddam (even in Suddams' present state of deceasement I think he would still have a chance) }.

{ postscript: sorry david but I just have to put this in: David brought the bike around as there was some problem with charging the batteries,
he mentioned that the computer plug the charger goes into, it was accidentally connected directly to a 240v mains power plug!!! Oh my !!!
The amazing thing is the bms board on lithiums had appeared to have failed, but no ill effects to the lithium cells........lucky I think on that one, could have been very nasty.
I also realised on inspecting the battery wiring that I had put one charger connection back to front, I plugged in one charger to that socket to test and it made a strange noise, on puting my ear to the charger it sounded like something was boiling, soon after it went up in a reasonable puff of smoke.
It gets worse!! I then went and got another charger ( not realising at this stage that I had the charging wires to battery polarity the wrong way around).
I connected up that charger, and put my ear to it, I said to David " hey its making that noise again", just as I finished those words the damn thing went up in a hell of a puff of smoke, some very nice green colours in the smoke. No damage to me fortunately, but pretty stupid puting my ear up to the charger after one had just caught fire, anyway we had a bit of a laugh about it soon afterwards!"

May 2007: Chris P from western australia: chris has set up a number of bikes with different motors, some pics of his bikes can be seen on power assist yahoo discussion group in the photos section. Below is a mountain bike he set up with a GL-2 motor with regen braking, I think from memory he is using 2 lots of 24v 8ahr Nimh batteries in series to give 48v 8ahr. There was some concern the regen braking current was effecting the nimh batteries so not sure if he's still using the Nimh with GL-2.
Also the GL-2 motor is a very narrow motor, he had some problems with spoke breakages, I also found that due to the narrowness of the motor the rim tends to flex sideways alot, so in future i'll have to supply the GL-2 motors already laced into an aluminium dual wall rim ( 3.2cm wide ) which had very little chance of sideways flexing to solve that problem. (chris has had this motor set up for quite a long time, I had forgotten to put a pic up ).

May 2007: (have been pretty slack in puting up customers pics better start doing again)

From PeterF in Ivanhoe Victoria Australia( software engineer extraordinare). Peter has built a couple of three wheeled go karts which have proven very popular in his neighbourhood using dual speed crystalyte motors (he's using single speed controllers at present as I forgot to tell him to throttle off when changing windings on the dual speed controllers, both I have to replace mosfets as the large back emf voltage spike damaged them when motor windings were changed under load, looking into using some TVS devices ( transient voltage supressors to stop this problem from occuring , an inexpensive fix).
Peter has some plans coming for the gokarts which i'll put up on website when arrive, until then no pics of the gokarts. But he has installed one dual speed into a mountain bike recently which is shown below using two lithiums for power source ( 48v 10ahr total ). Also its recently come to my attention that the lithium packs which I had thought were iron phosphate chemistry, looks like they are cobalt oxide type, pretty peeved that the company selling to me , misled me about the chemistry, not nice at all. Am negotiating some prices with some iron phosphate lithium suppliers at the moment, will have to redo lithium section shortly as time permits.

{Postscript: something I had failed to realise was that under load if a dual speed motor is switched from one winding to another, there is a large back emf voltage spike occurs when one winding is cut from the controller power, this voltage spike is high enough if the load is great enough, to go over the rated voltage of the mosfets in the controller ( which are 100v approx, dom reports they will go up to 106v). Anyway it led to failure of mosfets in Peters controller (s). So basically you have to throttle off motor power before switching the windings in a dual speed motor, another solution that will mean not having to throttle off before switching is using some transient voltage supressors ( thanks power assist forum guys for that tip), looking into that solution, hoping Kenny at crystalyte will include them as standard in future dual speed controllers at some stage.}

November 2006: Brett in Newcastle: heres my small trike with P3 motor in front. Ran into a friend the other day (Andrew shown on the trike) and he threw his kids in the back and took for a spin. Just thought it was a good pic to put up! here i'm using 4 lots of 20ahr sealed lead acid absorbed glass matt batteries, thanks to trevor at eazyride bikes in newcastle. Motor is running on 48v 15amp controller has a very long range indeed have never run batteries down to flat to find out total range as yet. but motor has quite alot of grunt at low rpm and no probs to run with the weight of the people on it as shown below, in fact I was quite worried at andrews driving style with all those kids on the back, think they enjoyed.

November 2006: Terry and John from Perth, Western Australia: Terry and his friend John both do long camping trips (by foot) in south west Western Australia. They had already set up their camping trailers with windscreenwiper motors to assist the trailers (which go in the front of them as they walk along). They've installed P2a motors which have a freewheel mechanism (low resistance to wheel turning when not using the motor) and have a high gear ratio (10:1) so they have good torque at low speeds. Terry said that on very steep hills the motor will eventually stall so I think he will be adjusting the controllers max. amps (adding additional solder to the buzzbar in the controller) to give more torque when needed. Terry is using a band brake on the motor, one thing I didn't realise is that the band brakes dont work in reverse only when going forwards so I think he's going to switch over to a disc brake instead. 2 lots of 17amp hour sla agm batteries are used, I'm not sure what the range they are getting is at the moment but I think is very good, will update when I get the range figures.
Below the walking trailer loaded up and ready to go

below: How the guys had previously set up the walking trailers with windscreen wiper motors.

{ Postscript: sorry to report that one of the motors burnt out on a long steep hill on New years eve, I suspect that being long and steep that the motor was going at very low rpm and running at a low efficiency and hence producing a lot of heat, walking up a steep hill the speed would be very slow indeed, so it would appear that the gear ratio of the P2a motor is not high enough for high load situations for a long period at very low speed, one of the guys has I think now gone back to a windscreen wiper motor}

{another postscript email from John on 16th June 2007: "Well i have been running the 24 V p2a motor now for 10 months and it has performed beyond my expectations. Have embarked on 50 or so adventures. My bushwalking trolley is 20 kg's lighter than Terry's one" (referring to motor burn out of Terrys motor). John also metioned he's using two lots of sealed lead acid 7ahr batteries in parallel, thinking of going to lithiums}

November 2006: Monty from Perth, Western Australia: sent in a before and after shot of his his 20" wheel size bike using a P2a motor, batteries inside a bag on the rear carrier and controller inside a box to tidy things up.
after conversion below;

before conversion below:

Montys' bike using twist type throttle with thumb lever type gear change. The thumb lever will go over the top of the leds when you change
gear but it does mean the leds are pointing more or less horizontally rather than up at the rider. If you point them up at the rider the thumb lever gear change hits the leds lights.

November 2006: Ray from Laurieton, Australia: Ray has had the tongxin motor installed on the front wheel for some time. He's using some sla agm batteries on the rear.

The batteries are from jump starter units and he's using the lights from the jump starter units also.

On Rays new project using a GL-1 motor he came up with an idea that I think is rather good, is to use the ribbon wire used in computers and some other electronics equipment to neaten up all the wiring coming from the front throttle and brake handles to the controller shown below. Ray also suggested that puting standard wires into a clear plastic tube also gives a neat finish.

November 2006: Andy from Newcastle, Australia has done a really nice piece of engineering using a P2-A motor.

He wrote about setting up the bike:
*Batteries in frame to keep away from baby seat
*Batteries are 2 x 17AH AGM
*12V Battery chargers x 2 (from jump starters) mounted just in front of batteries and permanently wired in
*Main isolator (20A switch) wired in between two batteries so chargers can work independently
*Battery frame hand fabricated from aluminium c-profile which fitted snugly around frame tubes (came from old concertina folding door). Way too many hours of hacksawing and test-fitting involved, but it seems very solid. Also secured by two welded drink-bottle mounting points.
*Battery boxes are some $2 Go-Lo lunchboxes. They were slightly tapered and a whisker too small, hence the lower corners were cut with a knife. They are sandwiched to the channel by a plywood/foam baseplate screwed through the boxes
*I didnâ€™t try to dish the rear wheel, as I found the brake pads could be offset (about 6mm) to compensate. I invested in a spoke spanner like yours ($10) which was well worth it.
*The 3-gear cluster uses wider spacing between each gear than my original 7-speed, which causes problems with the Indexed gears (I now use 4 clicks to span 3 gears, also some gear noise in top) but it is useable.
*I only just had sufficient clearance between the derailleur and the cluster gear teeth â€“ about 1 mm even with the spring tension wound to the max â€“ this is because the 3-speed has a relatively larger diameter in the same position on the axle.
*I havenâ€™t fitted brake switches since I have a combined gear/brake unit â€“ instead I am using the accessory switch on the thumb throttle as a kill switch. Iâ€™m still not satisfied with the throttle position, may try a few other options (the Shimano Rapid-fire gear selectors are brilliant to use, but take up a lot of handlebar real estate).

October 2006: Kerry from Newcastle, Australia: not really a customer, he's working with me on testing some motors, we put this motor in his fiances' Schwinn chopper style bike, basically similar motor to the 408 crystalyte or GL-1 motor, its brushless/gearless and running on 48volts. Its in an 18" wheel so is giving very good torque for hills, batteries are 4 lots of 14ahr sla agm type. Motor is commonly found in moped style ebikes in china. Same specs as a 408 crystalyte or gl-1 motor.
The controller has regenerative braking so were just using the front 'v' brakes and on the rear just using the regenerative braking for the rear brake. Because its such a small rim the regen braking is very strong indeed, but over a certain speed the controller will cut off the regen to save the mosfets in the controller from damage. Fortunately the front rim is aluminium and the front brake is very good, but I think we will put a bandbrake or disc brake in the rear also, the schwinn frame is very wide at the rear ( I think about 18cm!) so theres plenty of room for a large cluster or brake on the hub motor. Kerry often doubles his fiance (or vice versa) the motor seems to be fine with two people on the bike, though top speed, range and hill riding abilities are somewhat reduced of course. Kerry also noticed the regen. controller will cut out at 60volts, protecting the batteries if they are already in a charged state. That may come in very handy for using regen with the lithium battery packs (48volt) that I'll do some testing on later on.

Russell of Western Oz (below), what do you think would have better fuel economy, the Toyota Prius for $40,000+ Aud, or Russells Hybrid for about 1/40th the price???
My bets on Russells Hybrid!! He's using a sachs petrol motor on rear wheel, and a cyrstlayte 408 motor on the front. He's got two sla batteries and two small car wet cells at present (that will be changed to sla later on) which give 48volts for the front mounted 408..

below i've just taken out the background so you can see the bike better.

Bill of Western Australia: has set up his batteries way down low, to keep centre of gravity low, very neat set up, with a meter at front the big black box using tongxin front drive motor. 28aug06

Below James from Canberra. Thought I would include this one although its not one of my motors James has made some modifications to his Aprilia Enjoy bike which he says makes it much more user friendly.
He writes:
" The only Original electrical parts retained - motor, and key switch. Cycle parts are excellent, albeit the frame a bit on heavy side.
Fairing all discarded. Items discarded - controller, hand brake cut outs, NiMH battery and charger, torque and speed sensors (in crankcase- for metering elec power via pedal pressure and speed) (Note parts from Aprilia exorbitant - e.g.Battery $600 controller $630 Charger $300.
My mods, for under $200 -
Batteries, 2 x l2 v 7 ah lead acid gel( in series) - to give 24 volt./(could use larger to increase range)
Twist throttle and low cost controller.
Bike is now user friendly. Previously unable to pedal at all with out elec power, and twist throttle is an essential

Neddie in sydney using GL-1 motor at 48volts, two lithium polymer batteries (experimental) both 24volts 10ahr in series giving 48volts.
Motor weight is about 6kg, battery weight with box is about 5kg. So in total an additional 11kg to the original weight of the bike gives a very light weight but powerful bike. Top speed about 40km/hr. I've ridden this bike and to my surprise because of its light weight the GL-1 non-geared motor is actually very useful on hills, when using sealed lead acid batteries I still think a geared motor is better for hills, but with the latest in lithium technology giving such light weight its a different story. More info on lithium testing : http://www.users.bigpond.com/solarbbq/lithiumtesting.htm

Below: Neddie and myself (Brett) doing some test rides with Lipo batteries August 06 :
see movie link http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=1977546003028798554
(would you buy a used car from these guys?????????)

Michael of Corindi Beach NSW Australia is using the P2a geared motor 24volt version brushed running at 24volts.

Michael has used the voltmeters, switches and lights from the jump starter boxes (mounted on rear) and made a neat dash board set up.

He encountered some problems installing a 5 speed cluster on his bike but solved the problem with a little ingenuity.
There is a large nut on the gear side of the axle on the P2a motor (picture at left below)(why the manufacturer puts such a large nut I have no idea it doesn't seem to have any fuctional role).
Unfortunately Michaels' cluster wouldn't fit over the nut as the inner diameter of the cluster was smaller than the nut it had to go over (as shown in picture on right below).

So he simply removed the nut, put the cluster in place, and made a spacer tube of about 30mm in length and suitable diameter to sit inside the cluster (problemo solved!!)

Below: from Lorne is Sydney Australia
Lorne from sydney australia using tongxin motor, 36volt rear motor using 3 lots of 7amphour lead agm batteries. Lorne says he used his bike daily for 6 months with two recharges each day and after 6 months the batteries just about need replacing. Lorne recieved one of Tongxins later controllers which had some fault in them.
But lorne came up with a nifty solution to the problem: he put a switch on the throttle blue and red wires (red is 5v supply and blue is the hall sensor in throttle output). This allows the controller to see 5v (normally it only goes up to about 4.7v on full throttle) which seems to get the controller active again after it stops, the problem has been intermittent cut off of the controller. If there is anyone who bought a tongxin motor off me and is having this controller problem let me know, I have just about sent out all the replacement controllers but if I missed anyone send me an email asap.

Below "Doc" Rodvien from the good ol' USofA using P2a motor 24volt brushed version running on 36volts. Doc has been a great
source of info on the P2 motor and much thanks for that. He's using nimh batts.

Below Pete Edwards of sunny England set up a nice battery box, well two in fact the box at the back is also for batteries.
He's using the tongxin 36volt front motor.

Below: Team Electroplasm EV. The series of pictures below show the guys from Challenger TAFE (Fremantle). This was a project entered into the Murdoch Electric Vehicle Race 2005. The guys are doing the Advance Diploma in Electrotechnology (Electrical Engineering)

Pictured below are: Michael Rutkey, the one with the curly hair is the driver and an advisor, George Bernardo is the team leader, Muhammad Ghazrudyn Ghazali, responsible for the vehicle assembly and construction(middle) and Gavin McIllevin is our pit crew.

the Lecturer that inspire them to do the project is Steve Eliot.

The Vehicle name is "3G2A Oersted"

Eventually the front left of the Vehicle got a flat. They forgot to

take an extra spare tyre, but luckily their lecturer found a

spare. It took them 15 min to replace it. Would have had a good chance at a front
place but 8th with a 15min delay isn't too bad at all!!!!!!!!!!!Suggestion for next year:
TAKE A SPARE!!!!!

They used a crystalyte 408/4011 dual speed motor but never had to use the 4011 windings as the track did not have steep hills.

Below: David in the Blue Mountains, NSW. He's using the crystalyte X5 motor with 4 lots of 20amp hour batteries. Making for quite a heavy bike, must have a good range will have to ask him what it is.

Anjborn in Norway using a Tongxin front motor he's found for the steepness of his hills in his area he needs more torque than can be provided by this motor so I think he is experimenting with some other motors presently (2006).

Below from Michael in Canberra, Australia using 24v front Tongxin motor , 12ahr batteries.

Below Jon from Windsor Queensland Australia. Jon is using the planetary P3 brushed motor 36volt with regards
to battery charging he says "Something I did with mine was use a six wire connector to connect the batteries to the controller. By wiring another 6 wire connector up differently and I can then plug into the batteries' connector and charge in parallel with a 12volt charger."

Below from Tony Matthews in Surfers Paradise Australia. Tony got hold of a nice battery box from Ebay which tidies things up nicely. Being mainly flat where he lives next to the beach in Surfers (yes I am jealous!) he's getting good range. Because of injuries he sustained some time ago in a car accident he doesn't give much pedal assist. Tony has said he gets 12km on 12ahr batteries with the Tongxin 24volt motor, thats with no pedal assist at all, not bad for no pedal assist but that is on flat roads only with no hills. Tony has spent alot of time developing a simple charging circuit for onboard charging, this one is a really nice solution he's posted it on his site at
http://www.ebike.biz/charging_36.htm

Below shows Tony bike using the GL1 motor. 48volt brushless (same characteristics as crystalyte 408) with 4 lots of 12ahr sla batteries (getting about 30km range on flat).

I went up to visit Tony is Surfers in Nov. 2005, we did a ride to compare the GL-1 brushless 48volt motor against the crystalyte 408. Outcome was very similar, 408 has top speed of 40km/hr at 48volt in a 26" rim, the GL-1 has a top speed of 38km/hr at 48volt in 26" rim. GL-1 controller uses 15amps max (postscript: has now increased to 18amps)., 408 uses 20amps max. 408 has slightly more torque on hills. Had a great day and what a perfect place for ebikes riding the footpaths along the beaches.
Picture below taken on that day we did the comparison.
I'm on the left (brett) and Tony on the right.

Below from Stuart in the UK using the P3 motor on 36volts. Stuart tried the Nimh batteries, they gave
quite amazing results for a few weeks but unfortunately the motor was drawing more than 10amps which is the limit
for those Nimh, so they died a quick death. Two of those Nimh packs in parallel would have solved the problem (in hindsight!) Think he's trying some lithium batteries now will post info when
when becomes available.

from Peter near Brisbane (Samford) Australia below: Using front brushless Tongxin 24volt motor, I helped Peter set up
this bike and we used the jump starter components so he doesn't have to remove batteries from the
bike for charging. He lives in a very steep hilly area so his range is not high (about 4 km I think from memory)
He's using 2 lots of 12ahr jump start batteries.

Of particular interest with Brians set up is how he connected the torque arm to the rear frame. I think his design ,or something very similar would
make an adaptable torque arm setup that could fit onto any bike frame, I'll try overtime to get something made up to put with the kits.Brians torque arm setup.

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