Campuhan/Tjampuhan near Ubud

At the dawn of Bali's Hindu history a traveling holy man from India found a place in central Bali where 'two rivers meet', Campuhan, in Balinese. He vowed to build a temple above the cliff overlooking the rivers. The temple is still today a place of ceremonies and quiet contemplation.

In the 1940s the princely family of Ubud opened the area to foreign painters which influenced a lively art culture in the surrounding villages which today is as vivid as ever. Their output is displayed and sold in the bustling streets of Ubud, ten minutes walk up the road.

For me the area of Campuhan, so near the rich diversion of great restaurants and shops of Ubud, is a quiet heaven to escape to. Much of the tropical profusion on the two sides of the rivers has been preserved with an imaginative fusion of the old and well blended new. The generous area is part of the Hotel Tjampuhan and Hotel Ibah, both in their own way showcases of responsible tourism, blending with landscape and local tradition.

The Tjampuhan Hotel is an old favourite of mine, my friendship with staff and place going back some 30 years.

The accommodation is in Balinese style bungalows and is keenly priced for the budget minded tourist who likes authentic experiences with a good level of comfort. The caves below the swimming pool, near the river's edge, are carved into a grotto of a fantastic array of characters from Balinese religion and mythology. The hotel's new spa is blended into this world of demons and gods -- a must to experience.

Across the river, past the old temple, is the Hotel Ibah. Moss covered walls surround the place. Once you step through the gates you enter a palatial complex of picturesque bungalows, each designed for privacy, luxury and some with stunning views. If you want to spoil yourself, this is the place to go.